What goop will give you is color and texture in one application. It will also give some thickness which will eliminate too much “flatness”. After the mixing, goop is easier than latex paint and you will be done. With a slow drying version of goop you can add your ground foam and other scenery things as you go and can carve some relief details as you go.
You will get several answers to the easiest question, and they will sound like, “my version is the easiest because I have learned how to use it”. Pick yours and practice. It will become the easiest after a while.
I did use some latex paint before I got into goop and at least it was easy to cover later.
You make it. There are several good recipies. Sassi in his scenery book gives the basic. I use 1/3 premixed liteweight drywall seam cement, 1/3 latex paint colored to taste, 1/3 sawdust, courseness to fit the scene. and a few drops of Lysol to discourage mold. This mixture dries in a day or so and can be worked for a couple of days. You can also clean up in a sink. (DON"T EVER CLEAN PLASTER IN A SINK).
All the other mixtures seem to work well. I started with this one because I had the stuff, and I like the ease of clean up. Sometimes I will substitute artist acrylics and water for latex paint.
I have had good results with Joe Fugate’s formula. He advocates 1 part portland cement, three parts Dap Patching Plaster, and four parts Vermiculite (fine grind). I used masonary dye to colour mine to taste. In a batch comprising about 1 liter of the stuff, I would add about 1/2 teaspoon of the Mesa colour powder.
I began by using Polly-Filla until I found the right plaster to use (thanks, Joe, for taking the time to answer my email). It works very well, but it is much more costly.
You will need two layers, at least, particularly if your spans are substantial. Also, if you are going to have large expanses that are essentially unsupported below them, you must form the surface with a series of dips and hills. One long flat slope will have insufficient strength.
You’re welcome, glad to help out. I’ve been experimenting lately with adding some elmer’s glue to the mix in order to minimize cracking while setting. I’ll let you know one of these days what works the best … but try adding about 1 part glue to 4 parts water to the water before you add it to the dry mix.
The portland cement gives the mixture a nice gray color (as opposed to the stark white of pure plaster) and the fine vermiculite helps keep the mixture more “fluffy” and a bit rubbery – you can actually poke holes in it for trees with a sharp awl. By fluffy, I mean the mix is lighter than straight plaster.
It also has a bit of grit, which adds to the “earthy” look.
Well I could not find the fine grade vermeculite so I used a flour sifter which breaks it up a bit. I ended up using thinset, paint, vermeculite , and water. Its not fluffy like Joe discribes but it covers well and leaves a good texture. The small shadows the vermeculite creates gives the scenery some depth. Bare it loos exactly like the hill around Palm Springs but after I add sagebrush and dessert grass I hope to give it a look more like the hills around the Inland Empire, San Berardino/Colton. I have quite a bit yet to do so I don’t have any pics yet, but I plan to post some soon.
I sure wish I could find the fine grade vermeculite as grinding down the bigger stuff takes for ever and I grow tired/impatient so my mix does not have very much in it.
Is there a fairly large plant nursery nearby? I got mine from a place 15 minutes away, and they seemed to have no trouble gettiing it…took them 5 days. I bought a 40 liter bag, and will probably use most of it.
The formula i use was in a MR mag earlier this year and it was the best thing i ever did for ground texture out of all of them…it’s 1 part vermiculite, 1 part celluclay, 1 part earth tone latex paint (I use a yellow ochre color because i model the southwest) , a cap of lysol concentrated disinfectant cleaner ( keeps it from souring if stored,) and 3/4 part elmers glue…not only does it make a great ground texture and is easy to spread, it also makes a great way to hold retaining walls and tunnel portals in place without all the mess plaster makes and no slippage while it dries …it’s messy to mix but if you use a large plastic bowl with a sealible lid it’s not too bad and can be stored up to a month without drying…chuck
I think it came out ok, I just could not wait for the fine vermeculite to come in the mail or UPS so I ground it down.
I know its not perfect but by the time I add trees, ground cover, rocks, trees the extra mini shadows created will just add to the effect. If I want less of the small shadows to show I simply runn my hand across the area and remove the small bits that stick up.
This is great work! I really like it. As you add additional materials it should be terrific.
My layout is relatively small, no mountains, mostly flat lands with some hills, so I’ve used Sculptalmold and plaster cloth because they’re so easy to use, and I think they look good. I can adjust the Sculptamold to get a textured finish or fairly smooth if needed. But Sculptamold doesn’t seem to be very popular. Is it because of cost or are there other problems with it?
I know that if I had a large layout, mountains, etc., it could get pretty expensive. I now have a 6’ x 18’ table-top layout but my ultimate dream is to extend it around my basement walls with a mountain railroad (Rio Grande of course) and maybe some narrow gage branches. If I ever get to do this, many of the ideas on this post and on some of the plaster posts will really be helpful so thanks for all the ideas.