I’m ready to add DPDT electric micro switches on the facia for my tortois turnout motors. I’ve prototyped a 2" pipe end cap to recess the switches into the facia but this will take up so much room on the facia, I don’t much like it. The alternative is to place the switch directly through the facia board, leaving the 1/2" switch handle protruding out of the facia. I’m worried these switch handles will snag on the crew’s clothing. I already have lots of these micro switches. Any suggestions on how to avoid both drawbacks, (recess or protrude), will be greatly appreciated.
Capt. Brigg Franklin CEO:
Pacific Cascade Railway in HO gauge
Take a look at these:
http://www.berretthillshop.com/store/products/touch-controls/
It would mean surplusing your inventory of toggles, but IMO it would be worth it.
Hi, Captain
What I have found that works best for me is to use single and two-gang household outlet blank covers, the flexible Lexan ones, and fit these with a simple hardware drawer pull arranged to protect the “toggle” part of the switch so that they don’t get snagged.
IMG_0167_W by Edmund, on Flickr
Yes, I still have a DYMO label maker!
I still have to make labels for this one. Note the toggle is side-ways mounted. This is because this turnout can be operated from two locations, therefore the “reverse-up, normal-down” doesn’t relate to the orientation of the toggle lever.
I like to be able to zip the short, flathead wood screws out, #6 x 5/8 I believe, and I can easily access the wiring. Leave enough lead wire so you can pull it away from the fascia a few inches or more.
You mention that you are using microswitches? I assume you mean miniature toggle switch or are you really using Microswitch type lever switches? Just wondering.
By having my switches on the cover plate I can do my wiring
Hey Ed: Great idea to use the cover panels. I don’t recall seeing that before. I have mostly hand thrown turnouts, but a few locations where I have toggles in holes directly into the fascia. I might change that now, seeing what you’ve done. Thanks for sharing. Joel
Carl425, thanks for the link. I have seen those toggle switches and they look very nice but on my hobby budget are too expensive.
Ed, I like your ideas, but may modify your process a little. Since my facia is hinged at the bottom and swings down to get at the wiring (see photo) I can put the miniture toggle switch and LED into the facia and then put a drawer pull over it for protection.
Thanks to both of you for responding.
Capt. Brigg
I used beveled wood moldings to protect the toggles. I cut them from 1/2" X 3/4" rectangular molding stock from Lowe’s, attached with Liquid Nails construction adhesive. Clothing never snags on the toggles, and the turnouts never get accidentally thrown.
Lots of good suggestions and innovative thinking, too! [tup][tup]
Another option is toggle switches with more compact visible parts. The ones shown below, on both the upper and lower fascia, protrude only 1/2", and that includes the bezel which holds them in place. The actual switch is full-size.
Another thing to factor in is aisle width: mine are fairly generous, although there’s one tight-ish spot. I could easily squeeze by my double there, but none of my bigger friends would have trouble going through that area on their own. Naturally, there are no toggle switches in that area.
If you wish to recess the toggles, I’d think that 1½" pipe caps would be sufficient - you need use only your fingertip to flip the switch.
Wayne
Ken Patterson uses round rocker switches. Less than $1 each at Digikey.
His method of construction is a little different. He uses plywood for fascia and multiple layers of 2" foam. Sept 4, 2015 of What’s Neat on Youtube. He makes a mini panel out lexan, and inlays that into the foam, after tunneling the wires to the front of the foam. With the inset and the thickness of the plywood, the switches are protected from brushing by them.
Even is you don’t use his technique, a rocker is a lower profile. It does not protect you from people leaning on the fascia.
Rocker switches might be OK— but I still like the tactile feel of the standard toggle plus I like to be able to look at a glance, even with the bi-color LED, and see the position of the toggle.
Thank You, Joel!
Capt. Brigg: I hope you have better luck drilling the “Masonite” and fitting the switch. Whenever I tried to drill hardboard, unless it is the REALLY dense, tempered stuff, all I got was a fuzzy hole and it was a pain to try to mount the switch, especially the sub-miniature switches [8o|]
Regards, Ed
I like a combination of Ed’s and Roger’s ideas above, only I would like to find a tubular or solid metal handle about 3/4" tall and 1.5" wide that fits over the switch handle. I’ve looked at all the drawer handles at the big box stores and they are all 3" to 4" wide, too big. I might as well go with the 2" indented pipe cap. What I need is a handle for a very narrow 3" wide drawer or something like it. I also looked at covers for industrial switches, all too big. I think we need to look outside the box (or drawer.) How to make or buy a small switch shield like Ed’s only smaller. Again, thanks for all the energizing ideas.
Capt. Brigg Franklin
Pacific Cascade Railway
They’re not metal, but perhaps a PVC Conduit two-hole clamp. Maybe the 3/4" or 1" pipe diameter size? They are pretty tough and you can paint them any color you choose.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-Strap-Clamp-20-Pack-R5133737M/202043268
OR if you really want metal, you can get them in galvanized or stainless, too.
Personally, I think the PVC ones would look a little nicer.
They will be rounded and shouldn’t snag anything, except those pesky Digitrax throttle plugs! They snag on everything!
Good Luck, Ed
Great discussion! Lots of great ideas.
This is one of the details that our club will have to address very soon.
Thanks,
Dave
Where you have a single switch, you could continue with the PVC caps.
Where you have multiple switches, you could make a recessed panel.
I wonder if there’s a way you could mount them so they’re facing down.
There’s so much to think about in building a layout, isn’t there.
I still haven’t found my perfect solution for the mini toggle switches. The recessed pipe caps seem too large and the protruding switch cover seems to stick out too far.
Is that the 2" cap? There are smaller caps available but I don’t know what size I would need to get my fat fingers in there. Some of us have an abundance of pill bottle caps, they do not necessarily have the smooth interior of the PVC caps.
have you considered recessing a latching spdt button switch
edit never mind.
When dealing with the tortoise turnout machine the electrical switch has to be DPDT in order the reverse the electrical polarity and be permanent contact and unlighted when using a red/green LED to signal the turnout direction. However it was a good idea to look on Ebay for the right kind of switch, thanks. I will do a little more searching.
Capt. Brigg
unless you use a bipolar (+/gnd/-) supply
One of my control panels recessed
Neal