One of those things I know I’ve seen in the past, but am having no luck finding now… recessed bezels for toggle switches, sort of like little plastic cups with a hole in the bottom, for mounting the switch, keeps the switch from projecting out of the facia board… you have to stick a finger in the “cup” to flip the switch.
If anyone has a source for these, I’d appreciate what info you have.
Ed
End caps for PVC water pipe are what you’re looking for. Depending on the size of toggle switch you have, a PVC cap of 1" or larger should suffice. Drill a hole in the end of the cap and mount the switch from the rear. I use a hole saw in an electric drill to make the hole for the cap, and Goop to glue the cap into the fascia board (actually into the 2x4 behind the fascia). If you already have a hole saw, take it to the hardware store and find caps that are close to that saw’s size. If you don’t already have a hole saw, then get a cap and saw to match. Hole saws and caps do not come in exactly right sizes, so some shimming with cardboard might be required around the cap because the hole saw makes an opening that is about 1/32" larger than the cap; however, Goop and cardboard easily fill in this extra space.
I also recall using the pipe cap with a glue gun for attaching to the rear of the fasica.
Another idea I’ve read is to mount the toggle switches directly on the fascia, and then mount a curved, metal drawer pull over it. The toggle sticks out into the aisle that way, of course, but the drawer pull acts as a guard and deflector so you never snag on the toggle lever.
Gillette Foamy shave cream makes a travel size that Walgreens sells for 99 cents each. The tops would make perfect “cups” for inset toggles. I tend to save some plastic parts from these as well as other household goods with the thought that often they make good structural shapes for loads and industries.
Dave Nelson
Dave, let’s see, if I shave 4X a day for a year or so… just kidding! That’s a great idea, and for 99 cents, probably as cheap as the PVC, with bonus shave cream! Thanks!
Ed
Finally getting to building my facia and was considering using rocker switches. Don’t have little kids to worry about running around flipping the switches. Just wanted to keep someone from catching on them as they walk around. OF course if your recessing them to prevent the little ones from sending a train the wrong way, I think of my grandkids that just love sticking there fingers where they don’t belong. Mousser has some that mount in round holes. MIght be easier than all that cutting and glueing. I’ve seen one layout that used 35mm film canisters (if there still around) .
Joe
Setting up recessed switches individually works in some locations. But yards and other dense traffic call for another solution when you have multiple switches close together.
What I do is cut a window into the fascia with a rotary cutter (I use 1/8" masonite). Then I apply a 1x2 to each side of the opening. I measure for a back panel that will then by larger than the opening and screw to the back side of the 1x2 spacers. Then I take the 1/2" drill and punch holes as needed.
The entire panel can be renewed pretty easily if you make major changes that dictate moving switches. The panel is easy to label and draw on.
For locations where it may be impractical to recess toggles, I install beveled 1/2" x 11/16" wood blocks to protect them. I’ve never had a damaged toggle with these in use.
To recess mine, I’ve cut a rectangle out of the fascia, then glued a thin piece (1/8" thick) piece of basswood behind the hole. I then drill 1/4" holes for the toggles.
My toggles are mounted just inside the fascia line, with vertical handles. The toggles are mounted on one side of a piece of steel stud material, while the fascia screws to the flat bottom of the stud. A little creative cutting and bending forms brackets to stiffen the side the toggles mount on.
Access is through a `window’ in the fascia.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on steel stud benchwork)
I do not have a source for what you are looking for. Do these have to be in the facia board or could they also be on the actual benchwork. For benchwork mounted. Drill a 1" hole through the entier board. Get a cruved edge router bit and run it around the whole circle. That creates the cup. Then just mount the switch on a piece of sheet metal or thin masonite and mount it to the back side of the bench frame. They look nice and work well.
Hole saws come in different sizes. They are made differently for electricians and other construction trades. Electrical hole saws are made according to conduit sizes, A 1/2’’ one actually cuts a 7/8’’ hole for the outside diameter of the pipe. One made for carpenters is actually 1/2’’ in size. This will allow you to get a closer size hole for your pipe cap.
I use a combo of 1" cpvc end cap (Genova # 50158 at Lowes) and a cpvc reducing bushing (Genova # 20217 at Lowes) and this eliminates the need for gluing since they are kept together by friction. The reducer slides inside the cap. Drill a hole in the backend of the endcap to accept the toggle switch, cut a 1 1/8" hole in the fascia, push the reducer bushing into the hole from the fascia front (will stop when bushing lip hits fascia) then push end cap onto bushing from the back of the fascia until it’s a snug fit. If the toggle is too short to reach with pudgy fingers, grind the open end of the endcap to shorten it’s depth. The only exposure on the fascia is a ring 1/4" wide by 1/8" deep.
What about using ‘project boxes’ from Home Depot/Lowe’s/local hardware (I’ve seen different sizes/depths so one might be better for you than the other), installed in a normal orientation (the same as if it was in your wall) and attach the switch to the inside, bottom of the box? You could also mount the switch to the back of the box, but I thought the bottom of the box would be different/better? If you’re clever, you could mount a LED(s) to the top of the box, shining down to illuminate the switch and inside of the box (even slicker, you could use 2 LED’s, one green, one red, to mimic the turnout position or signal displayed).
Better late than never. [(-D]
This is an April 2012 thread, actually started in 2004.
Rich