Are the Xuron Track Cutters worth the money, or is a razor saw the best way to cut flextrack?
I have a few tools that arent mentioned.
Instead of a hobby knife, I use a Scalpel and different blades. Blades are super sharp, and super cheap. When they get dull, just throw them out.
I use a pair of tweezers that release when squeezed, they hol tihngs a little better. I also have 2 pairs of Hemostats that are good for a tight hold. I also use some end cutting pliers that are really handy that I got in a plier Kit from ACE hardware. Another pair in the kit are some smooth jaw mini linemans pliers.
I also use a Ceramic tool. It is great for installing knuckle springs, but is not as sharp as a knife. and the curved end is great for prying things as well as scraping “gunk” off things.
I apologize for the appearance of this post. As I type this, there are blank lines between the descriptions of each tool. Why it looks like one run-on sentence, I don’t know. I have many ‘tools’. Some will be found in the hardware section, others not. Dremel tool with the cable attachment. Used with cutting disk is my preferred way to cut flextrack. Cutting disks - larger ones for cutting flex track. My flextrack is nailed until I get around to ballasting it. I use a common kitchen knife, not the steak knife, the one that barely can cut butter to pry up the nails. It’s great, long handle, long skinny blade, enough twist to raise the nail. I’ve used lead shot to add weight to rolling stock. I do the work over a piece of scrap carpet to keep the lead shot from rolling away and a common kitchen spoon to pour the shot in place. Small wire strippers. Small needle-nose pliers. Opti-Visor - magnifying lens on an adjustable headband. Drill bits from 50 to 80. Pin vises for those drill bits. An old-style, egg-beater hand drill. Great for when the job calls for something more controllable than a power drill and bigger than a pin vise. Lots of 2-56 screws in different lengths. Reamers - very useful to open small holes that have been clogged by paint. Also eliminates the ‘force fit’ with small breakable parts. Files - I have the small jeweler’s files and another set larger than the jeweler’s and considerably smaller than standard files. Those mid-size files came in a set of 6. The special cutting tools for removing parts from sprues. Resistance soldering tool - best thing ever for soldering track feeders. A 4’ metal rule. Great for laying out straight track. I call it my 4’ yard stick. A power miter saw - my God what a blessing when building benchwork. Radial arm saw - I wish I had one. Table saw - See Radial Arm Saw. Sabre saw. Circular saw. Trammel stick - a long (‘long’ determined by your need), slender, straight piece of wood with many holes
I use the MicroMark vacuum attachment for a full size vacuum. The Xuron track nail puller is great. Many sizes of tweezers. Mirror on a stick. A good natural light lamp with magnifier lens. Cotton swabs. Power wheel cleaner. Bright boy. Measuring caps from laundry soap bottles. Paper towels. Spring clothes pins. Foam cradle for working on locomotives. Grab-it. Staticmaster brush. Medicine droppers.
If you do much in the way of craftsman kit building, kit bashing, or scratch building you’ll likely find the NWSL Chopper to be a useful tool. They make precision cuts in wood or plastic. These may seem a little pricey at hobby stores. I got mine (gently used) on eBay for $10 plus shipping.
Get a stainless steel dentist’s pick. I have two - one has a straight pointed end and a hook end, the other has two ends that are bent-out & in to get inside corners and crevices. These tools have been absolutely indispensable to me. I’ve used them for clearing the inside of rail after ballasting, as hole punches for scenery, for gently positioning decals, for ripping-up & removing scenic material or ballast, etching, and a hundred other uses. I’ve even used the straight pointed end to apply pinpoints of paint where needed.
You can get them in hobbyshops, or science supply stores, or I’m sure your dentist could order one for you.
Jcopilot, Ever since the last forum modification, I have been having exactly the same problem with paragraphs as you have. There was even a whole thread that tried to help me resolve this problem but nothing that was suggested would work for me. I have since given up. If you find a way to resolve this paragraph issue, please let me know. Each sentence in this post has been separated using standard practice. I am beginning to think it’s my MAC. Peter Smith, Memphis
Tools: “Headlight”!! it’s a LED light on an elastic strap that goes on your head - great for looking in those spots that your overhead leaves in shadow, like putting a car on the track without a re-railer!! Also for working under the layout on a switch machine or wireing!![8D]
Peter Smith, have you tried doing your response in “Word” and copying to the forum? Just an idea.[:)]
One “tool” I would not part with is my jewelers apron. My jeweler said you want to stop cussing when you drop those tiny grab irons? Here wear this apron and I’ll bet you will never work without. Well, not a 100 % but maybe 90%! He was right. Give one a try.
On the visor issue. I’m 75, very poor eyesight due to a mild stroke and my visor is the only means I have of continuing with my modle building.
