I’m ready to start wiring some Tortise motors and I’d like to use an edge connector rather than hard wire to the PCB on the Tortise. I’ve searched in the catalogs of the major electronics supple houses ( Digi-Key,Newark, Jameco,All Electronics), but my lack of knowledge in this area leaves me confused as to what part I need. I’m looking for a 10 contact connector with solder loops. I know about the 8 posistion one offered in the MR ads,but I’d prefer something less expensive as I need 50 to start,I’m like to keep the cost to less than $2 apiece.I guess a 20 posistion one would work also,just using the one side. The ones with pins would be good also,but I don’t know how to attach wire to that type.I’ve seen those type,I assume there is a special tool to wrap the wire on the pins?? I’m curious what the part #s and the supplier you used from those of you who are using edge connectors. Any advice will be greatly appreciated!!!
I have about 30 Tortise machines and use connectors on all of them. My first couple came from Tony’s Train Exchange. They were very expensive.
I bought about 25 from Greenway Products for less money.
Also the one’s from Greenway fit the Tortise exactly. The Tony connectors are BLUE and are too wide which can cause a problem if they get shifted left or right.
This may be corrected with shims but why bother when you can buy connectors that are made to fit the Tortise.
The Greenway connectors are GREEN and are not too wide. Also Greenway includes a connector with each Tortise ( a year ago) that you purchase from them.
Here is what I used with my tortoises. I have installed about 35 using these. They have enought grip on them that they don’t slide back and forth and it is just a matter of lining up the contacts. I use CAT-5 Network cable to run the controls to my panel.
They make blanking pins for the bigger connectors so they don’t slide over and connect tot he wrong pins. The real 8 pin ones are somewhat rare and hard to find. A better idea is some molex connectors. Either straight or right angle - right angle pins would mean the wires won;t hang down as far. Solder the pins to the Tortoise at the bench, before installign it. Attached the wires to the sockets and insert intot he shell, plug into Tortoise.
Alternately, Empire Northern sells Tortoises for $2 more that come with screw terminals on them.
I’ve got about a hundred Tortoises (Torti?). I used the 10-position connectors on some and have the problem mentioned with not getting them positioned exactly right. Hadn’t seen the gadgets to prevent that. But I’ve had much better luck with soldering a length of 8-conductor cable (4-pair phone wire) long enough to reach the benchwork, then screwed into a Euro-Stye terminal block. I do the soldering and connecting to the terminal block on my workbench instead of upside down under the layout, then install the Tortoise and screw the connector to the benchwork. Then it’s easy to connect the various wires for switch control, power routing, LED indicators, etc. to the connector.
I’m with you, Pondini. I don’t understand the need for any kind of edge connector for a Tortoise machine. It’s rather pointless, as how often does one have to replace one? At my club, we’ve installed close to 300 of them over the last 7 years, and only one has needed replaced (and that’s because someone drilled through the top of it).
If you use an edge connector, you still have to solder wires to it. Why not simply solder 18" of wire to the Tortoise at the bench and then connect the wire to a terminal strip mounted on the layout, and make all your connections there? If you use a terminal strip, that will also take all the stresses of some people accidently tugging the wires. You also don’t have to worry about mis-aligning the pins or any of that stuff.
OK guys…you’ve convinced me! …and thanks to all for the advice and responses.Solder direct to the Tortise board it is. I was going to use the edge connector and then route to a terminal block anyway,so I guess an edge connector is redundant.My biggest concern was the chance of the solder connection to the Tortise PCB being snagged and damaged while working under the layout,rendering the Tortise useless. I thought with an edge connector the worst that could happen would be just being pulled away from the Tortise if snagged. If I hadn’t already acquired the machines (72),I might have gone the Greenway route.By adding the cost of an edge connector to the price per machine I paid,it’s close to the Greenway price with the edge connector included. So,to keep the thread going,any ideas on terminal strips?? Something easy to use,without the need for special tools? Are there terminal strips that don’t require the need to attack spade lugs? I’ve used the old black ones by just wrapping the wire around the screw,but sometimes they come loose. I was wondering if there are any “modern” types available since the last time I bought one some 20 years ago.Thanks again guys…and girls as the case maybe.
Yes, there is a new type of terminal strip: they’re called “Eurostyle”. They have two rows of holes for bare wire ends to be inserted, and little screws to clamp them.
They come in various sizes, with various sizes of holes for the different wire sizes.
If that doesn’t work, their product number is 274-680 and lists at $2.59 each.
These have 12 positions, and are easily cut. The remaining pieces come in handy for other uses, but you can also get 8 position strips.
If you order in bulk directly from a Radio Shack store (instead of via their rather tacky web site), they’ll probably give you a discount. If there’s one near you, they’ll probably have a few in stock, including some of the other sizes, which you might have other uses for.
You can find less expensive ones elsewhere (from electronics supply places like Demar or Jameco), but the others I’ve gotten had the occasional cross-threaded screws.
Tom, another possible reason not to get edge connectors: the Greenway and other industry standard eight pin connectors do not actually fit the Tortoise machines correctly, contrary to words above.
The reason is that the Tortoise board is not the correct width. It is so narrow that even an eight pin connector can be slid on off-center, easy to do working underneath the table in poor lighting. Bumping the connector or pulling the wires by accident can do it. This can result in a short that kills power to all switches and take time to find. The solution I used on 35 units was to glue small pieces of square plastic rod into the ends of the connectors so it is not possible for them to be off-center.
I wouldn’t use connectors again, and think that it was a waste of money. Having a barrier strip next to the motor and soldering leads with spade lugs on the other end seems more sensible.
Here’s my solution. I use Cat5 cabling and bring all wiring back to 66 blocks. I can terminate 12 Tortoises per 66 block. Wiring chages are just simple punch downs with cross connects.