Got a lot done on the layout tonight, including my first ever install of a Tortoise. I’ve spent months playing with LEDs, toggles and getting all the groundwork in place, but tonight was the moment of truth.
And after all the debate, tips, tricks and comments about installing them, I was surprised to find it was… easy. I did use the ‘velcro’ method: Held the tortoise up, eyeballed the center hole of the fulcrum to center of hole in base, stuck a piece of velcro approximately there, and stuck another top dead center of the tortoise.
Stuck the tortoise in place, put the wire down through the turnout, put it through the fulcrum hole, screwed the retainer down, done. Hooked up a toggle (I use the 10-pin edge connectors, so all wiring is done at the bench) and away we went. Bam! perfect switching. Two screws through opposing corners of the machine, and a permanent installation in place.
Maybe I just got insanely lucky, but I hope not. Instead, I’m hoping it’s just not nearly as bad a chore as often advertised.
I also find installing torti to be very easy. I’ve done a bunch, and they’re very forgiving. Don’t know what the complaint abou t them was. I love 'em.
Cost. I have over 130 and all are perfect. Of the 6 Atlas (2) have failed in less than 6 mo. (Yes they are on a CD system) BUT the Tortoise is worth every cent. Hook them up and enjoy!!
Yeah, I’m now thinking my biggest “tortoise install” problem is going to be the handful of turnouts I laid without remembering to drill the hole first. Now I’ve got to drill a small “guide hole” from above, then try to drill the full-bore hole out from underneath. The main concern is depth, of course. I’ll probably run a 1/2" bit through some drywall sheets a few times to dull it up pretty good, then just go really slow… I suppose it might be safer to pull up those turnouts and associated track to drill the hole top-down like it should have been from the outset… But I just hate the thought of it.
Get yourself a Forstner bit at the hardware store. Drill a few holes in scrap material to determine how deep you need to go, then use a piece of tape on the drill bit to indicate your chosen depth. Use a small twist drill bit, drilling down from the top of the layout, to make a pilot hole on the bottom of the layout so you know you are drilling in the correct location.
Wait! I’m not sure whether to say “Duh” or “Hot Diggity!”
Since I allow my turnouts to “float” neither soldering nor caulking them down… I should be able to just slide the connectors back and lift 'em up. I’m not sure what I was thinking – the whole point of ‘floating’ turnouts is to be able to pull them out if there’s a problem…
Mind you, I’m thinking I should still stop and get the Forstner bit… Things have a way of working out better in theory than in practice.
Perfect, that is how all of mine are and I did forget to do a few and had no problem. I used a 1/2" paddle bit but the Fostner sounds better (Good info Darrell).
I am adding the wiring for the frogs and local signals. You heard about the Randy Rinker LED connection for the Tortoise I assume.
The “Forstner bit” is a good idea, for solid material. For foam, I just use a kitchen “Corer”! I twist it as I go and can tell when I get to the ties. jc5729
I find doublesided foam tape works better than velcro. You can add screws, if desired. I generally use 2 #4 x 1/2" screws but I am mounting on 1/2" plywood. I also made a wooden jig to place them the same way every time.