Toy Train Box Repairs!

[El_Fixes_Things]

I’ve been a little box-happy since my repro boxes came in the other day, and that reminded me I have quite a few damaged postwar boxes (and a few prewar ones) that could use a little help.

Today, I decided to have a go at shoring up this 0836-110 box (shown with the car it was intended for):

I acquired the car and the box separately- the box contained an 0837 caboose when I found it.

As you can see, the box has some issues. The window is mostly loose, dirty, and badly creased up. One flap is loose, but present. Typical creasing and tearing problems at all 4 corners of the window. The box is not quite as square as the day it left the factory.

I determined a full disassembly was necessary to perform the repair work I desired to do. I carefully removed the window the rest of the way (most of it had already separated from the box), and then used a heat gun on the glue seam to try and soften the old glue. I have absolutely no idea if it did anything, or if the box’s poor condition made the difference. Whatever the case, I was able to unfold the box.

Getting this far, it became incredibly apparent that the window side of the box had very poor structural integrity. My solution was to cut a rectangle of cardboard that could cover this side of the box, and glue it to the inside.

As I write this post, the glue is drying underneath the weight of a brick to help keep everything flat.
Once the glue is dry, the plan is to carefully cut the window open with a craft knife. Then I need to figure out a replacement for the window, as I don’t think I can really do anything to save the original one.

I also took the time to get started on a couple other boxes that needed more minor attention.
This 6464-150 box is in okay shape, but the flaps are getting a little fragile at the hinges, and the insert flaps needed a little shoring up. Here you can see I have cut one of the reinforcement pieces to help make the insert sturdy and square again.

I made some hinge repairs to one end of a 6466WX tender box that I was getting worried about the flaps on, but haven’t photographed that yet.

We’ll see how these all pan out. I have several very poor HO boxes that could use some fixing- if I can do a good job with some mostly intact boxes, I may attempt to repair some of these. I’m sure they’re not ‘worth the trouble’, but several of them go to my first Lionel HO set, the one that got me into collecting the stuff. It’d be nice to salvage them.

-El

[pennytrains]

I’ve heard that framer’s tape is quite useful for box stabilization. Any craft or art supply store that sells framing supplies should have it. Any acid free tape, glue or paper is helpful for this kind of work.

[El_Fixes_Things]

@pennytrains

I’ve heard that framer’s tape is quite useful for box stabilization.

I’ll have to look into it.
I’ve been using some “free” cardboard (from a big box store) and paper (from a paper bag), with Aleene’s Tacky Glue to adhere it to the box. Cardboard for structural reinforcement, and the paper for the hinges. The glue, I’m hoping, will be just the right amount of flexible.

-El

[amflyer1]

El I think Hobby Lobby sells a thick cellophane that mite work for the window.

Chuck

[El_Fixes_Things]

@amflyer1

I think Hobby Lobby sells a thick cellophane that mite work for the window.

Thanks for the tip! Unfortunately, I don’t know of any Hobby Lobby stores near me. But I’ll do some investigating. Ideally I don’t want to use genuine Cellophane since it likes to shrink and yellow when it ages, but I don’t know if they even make it anymore so it might be a non-issue.

[El_Fixes_Things]

Here’s some additional pictures- the two reinforcement pieces for the insert flap of the 6464-150 box:

And here’s the hinge reinforcements for the 6466WX box:

The flaps can open and close now without issue, we’ll see how they behave once everything is fully dry.

-El

[amflyer1]

El nice job!

Chuck

[Flintlock76]

@El_Fixes_Things

Ideally I don’t want to use genuine Cellophane since it likes to shrink and yellow when it ages, but I don’t know if they even make it anymore so it might be a non-issue.

Feel like a dopey dumb suggestion that might not be so dopey? How about the cellophane window from an Entenmann’s (or other) baked goods box?
It might just be a good replacement source in addition to providing dessert!

[El_Fixes_Things]

@Flintlock76

How about the cellophane window from an Entenmann’s (or other) baked goods box?

Wayne, you genius! Why didn’t I think of that? Every once in a while my folks pick some Entenmann’s, and they do have those nice big plastic windows. I’ll investigate my options more thoroughly the next time some ‘raw material’ comes in
In the meantime, I do have the original window sitting under some weight. I’m going to see if I can get it flat again.

I did a few more bits of repair work before calling it for the night… I noticed a slight crease that had created some weakness on the top of the 6464-150 box, so I cut and glued some cardboard out to reinforce that. It’s sitting under a big stack of books right now, hopefully that keeps everything from warping.

I also added some supporting cardboard to one of the end flaps on the 6466WX box, as it had another structurally-compromising crease I wanted to shore up. That has weight sitting on it as well.

We’ll see how everything looks tomorrow.

-El

[Matt_Wilson]

I use pieces from milk gallons or gallons of water to make building windows.

[Flintlock76]

Glad my “Shot in the dark!” was helpful Ellie!

[Flintlock76]

@Matt_Wilson

I use pieces from milk gallons or gallons of water to make building windows.

That would work depending on the jug material. I’ve been using strips from plastic milk jugs myself as glazing material for MTH passenger cars. MTH windows are see-through and what you see are empty cars. Rather than go through the hassle of putting people in them I block the windows with milk jug plastic, the jug plastic’s opaque enough so you can’t see in the cars but thin enough to let the light through with no problems. In fact, it seems to me it actually brightens things up a bit.

[Matt_Wilson]

@Flintlock76

In fact, it seems to me it actually brightens things up a bit.

That’s what I like about it. I don’t bother to illuminate my buildings because I don’t care to run trains in low light, so for me, using this kind of improves the appearance a little. My layout is not really tinplate and not really hi-rail, it’s sort of in between. Makes me happy anyway

[El_Fixes_Things]

I appreciate the thought, but a milk jug would be a terrible choice here as the purpose of the window is to display the contents of the box! Thus, a thin, perfectly transparent material is what I need.

That said, the water jug is a great idea for replicating that clear ‘frosted’ look, I knew of Wayne’s trick using milk jug plastic, but somehow it never occurred to me that they also make these jugs in clear plastic, and this would nicely replicate the sort of material used for things like the window glazing on a Lionel 445 switch tower. Not an exact match, but a similar look I think.

-El

[Matt_Wilson]

Sorry if I was being vague. There is no way box window should be milk jug. All I meant was that common items can be repurposed

[El_Fixes_Things]

0836 box is dry, or at least mostly dry, after sitting overnight. The reinforcement cardboard seems to have adhered well.

I carefully cut out the window from the reinforcement panel using a craft knife. I think I’m pretty happy with the results.

The front side of the box is once again structurally sound. Never mind that other parts of it very much are not still!

I’ve been looking at the window, and I think I might actually be able to save the original plastic after all… not sure just yet, I need to attempt to clean it first. But I was able to flatten it a little, and I might be able to get it the rest of the way into shape through gluing it back in place.

I did more reinforcement work to the 6464-150 and 6466WX boxes as well, and now those are sitting.

-El

[pennytrains]

Speaking of clear plastic packaging material, I save just about anything I can get my hands on. Besides window glazing the task I most often need it for is making little bases for figures, signs, even trees and street lamps. Anything that has a problem standing on carpet on a non permanent layout. A lot of baked goods come in clear plastic packaging from local suppliers. Sometimes you need a bit of Goo Gone to get label residue off.

Oh! I just thought about this one! If anyone in your life wears fake fingernails they often come in small clear plastic packaging.

[BN7150]

In Japan, this type of box is called a caramel-box or a sack-box. It is easy to deform when opening it. So, I’ll show you a little trick. Insert a stainless steel ruler of the right size and use it to press down the notch in the flap. Please take a look at the photo, instead of my poor English.

[El_Fixes_Things]

@pennytrains

I save just about anything I can get my hands on.

Becky, I too like to save packaging materials for model railroad purposes. Some of my folks are salad consumers, and the empty lettuce containers are a great source of flat, clear plastic. Great for making window glazing.
It’s thicker than the thin plastic used for the window boxes though, and I’m not sure I could get a nice, clean piece that was big enough to fill out a whole box window.

Unfortunately nobody in my life does fake fingernails, so I have to get my clear plastic elsewhere. Like I said though, the salad containers are a great means of getting the stuff.

[pennytrains]

I think the Entenmann’s boxes is a great idea. Cuz you get to eat the contents in order to preserve mid century cultural artifacts when you’re done