I am starting a layout for the first time since I was a kid, I can not believe all the changes. I have many questions about everything, layout, couplers, trucks. My first question is some people tell me that I should use 2in styrofoam under the track, styrofoam is so expensive will 1in work just as well? Also I have looked into tracks and am I doing right by buying code 100 track because I have old and new trains?
You could use 1" extruded foam but you will likely need some support like 1/4" plywood under it. Some also support their 2" foam with a plywood underlayment. You will find many answers to your question. Unless you have some locos and cars with large “pizza cutter” flanges I would recommend that you get code 83 track. It appears to be the de facto standard these days although there is nothing wrong with good old code 100 other than it’s appearance to some.
Joe
Welcome back to the hobby.
Yes, there are many changes in the hobby.
You are right, 2" foam is expensive, but it requires less support structure than 1", so there is a saving there in material and time. For making hills and other variations in terrain the 2" piles up faster and gives you more depth to work in below grade scenery. A simple grid with 24" spacing will support 2" very well, unless you plan some very heavy scenery. I haven’t tested 1" to see how much support it would actually need, maybe someone else has a better idea.
Since you plan to use your older equipment, I think you are wise to go code 100 (it’s also less expensive).
Keep reading these forums and you will find a wealth of information. When you have a question, ask, many folks here are ready and willing to answer. You will get different methods and opinions, just sift through them, try the ideas, then choose what works best for YOU.
Have fun,
Richard
LION uses code 100 rail because it is cheaper!
LION uses 1" foam, because it is cheaper AND it is easier to install switch machines under the layout.
LION actually used 1/2" Celotex for most of his layout set on a 16" grid (You do not want to go smaller than that, because sooner or later you will want to get your power drill in between those members.).
LIONS are CHEEP and all of his construction material was “found” somewhere.
ROAR
Gidday, [#welcome] to the forums.
For the reasons already given by Richard and Lion, I would also endorse the use of Code 100 track.
Have Fun,
Cheers, the Bear.
If you’re using “flat top” construction for your benchwork, you can use 2" Woodland Scenic risers under the track, rather than using a big sheet and then removing the part you don’t want.
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/ST1408/page/1
Addressing the code 100 track question - code 100 rail is over-size for true HO scale. Most track made with code 100 rail also has oversize ties and tie plates/spike heads. However, since our wheels are twice as thick as scale, and have deeper flanges than scale, the track is not necessarily as noticeably out of proportion as the figures might make it seen. Code 100’s over size definitely shows up in photographs, but is not so easily detected in person if the track is ballasted and weathered.
Depending on manufacturer, older wheels may have deep or very deep flanges (often called pizza cutters for their appearance). The very deep flanges from AHM and other European makes may or may not run on code 83 track. More recent models have smaller flanges. Deep (not very deep) flanges generally run fine on code 83. The NMRA RP25 flanges will run on rail as small as code 40.
Code 83 in HO represents 132lb prototype rail, which is used on modern main lines. Code 70 represents 110lb rail, which was typicall used on main lines from WW1 to the 1930s. Before 1910, 85lb rail and lighter was the norm. Code 55 scales to 75lb rail in HO. Keep in mind that the prototype would use lighter rail on branch line, sidings, and spurs than they did on the main line.
Complete lines of track (sectional, flex, turnouts) are available in code 83 and code 100. In code 70 and smaller, one is limited to flex track in HO. Only Shinohara and ME make commercial code 70 turnouts. Turnouts for code 55 or code 40 rail have to be built from kits, hand-laid, or custom-made.
Personally, I made a decision to use more accurately sized rail for my era (code 70 and smaller). This forced me not to use AHM, Rivarossi, IHC, and other locomotives with deep flanges on the drivers. On most cars, trucks are easily replaced with RP25 versions. Similarly, steam pilot and trailing truck wheels are generally replaceable with smalle
Thank you Joe for replying to me about the foam and code tracks. It is very helpful
Thank you Richard. I have been collecting the trains again since my second wife and I got married she is big into it with me and supports me for it. The trains are so beautiful now and so many have really become more perfect to the real thing it is awesome. Jim
Thanks Lion.
Thanks look like the 100 is best for me
Thank you Fred for your info on the code trains. I have all makes and models of trains so I guess code 100 is the way to go for me. Because I have not been around the trains since I was a kid I did not know wihich makes to go with so whatever looked nice to me is what I buy. Now I know to me in Ho is the Preiser people are very nice looking compared to woodland scenic people. I am learning as I go. So thank you so much. Jim
LION paints the track web and ties, him only leaves the tops of the rail heads shiny. Looks fine (enough) in photos.
ROAR
If your layout will be somewhat flat, the extruded foam (not beaded, styrofoam) should work fine for you. many here use this method. The 2" foam allows for added carving for depressed scenery features (gullies, rivers lakes etc). I would use at least 1/4" ply under the foam to be able to secure sw motors etc, otherwise these will need to be caulked/ glued in place.
If you are after more flexibility for elevation changes to track or scenery you may want to build w/ the “open grid”. Track/ subroadbed is mounted on 1/2 or 3/4" plywood strips supported on risers (often termed cookie-cutter). Yards, industrial areas and other structures are placed on pieces of ply. The scenery is filled in by various methods of stapled wire screening or cardboard lattice.
We happen to be using spline here but track can be placed on ply
I find that open grid allows for far better radical elevation changes w/o any alteration to the framework, Elevated sections are just supported on risers as well as any supports needed for hills/ mountains in the scenery.
I use Code 100 for a few reasons. It’s readily available where I live and on most online stores. I also model on a fairly tight budget and it’s cheaper, and if you are working on a medium sized or larger layout (which mine is) that cost savings adds up pretty quickly. I also have a “little conductor” (aka my four year old Son) working the trains with me and I find Code 100 track is more forgiving in the area of derailments. Once you paint it and ballast it, I find Code 100 looks quite nice and convincing.
Enjoy!
Amen on that, Don! I’m a low-budget modeler too, but also I see some very large money’s-no-object model railroaders go with the code 100 track. The ballasting, weathering and scenery make rail size a moot point, in my opinion.
Once you put code 100 down, it will be a pain if you don’t like it and want to rip it up. I use code 83, 70, 55, and even some code 40 and have no problems.
Back in the day’s,when I had my first,actual layout, you had three, choices for track, Code 100,Brass,Brass and Brass, I doubt,very seriously,anyone ripped it up,because,it didn’t look good!!
Cheers,
Frank
I returned to the hobby about 8 years ago, with boxes of old trains from the 1950s and 60s. I decided to use Code 100 to accomodate these. I built Phase 1 of my layout with that, but when I got to the layout expansion I call Phase 2, I decided to try Code 83. I tested my old engines (those that still ran) and rolling stock, and they work fine.
I would go with Code 83. It looks more realistic, to me, and I think there are more options for obscure items like curved turnouts and bridge track.
As a side note, I still have rolling stock with old “pizza cutter” plastic wheels, but I’m slowly replacing the wheels with new metal ones to improve rolling resistance. You may end up doing the same.
Z-stripe Folks used to use horn-hook couplers too, but they don’t anymore.