I’ve hit a track-laying roadblock and I haven’t worked on my layout in over three months because of it. I started laying track but I became very frustrated with the Atlas turnouts I was using. I’m going to order some hand laying supplies but I don’t have the funds for that at the moment. I do however have plenty of flex track to complete track laying. My question is, would it be a good idea to complete the entire mainline with no turnouts and then cut the turnouts in when I get them, or am I just asking for trouble? If I laid the entire mainline at least I’d be able to run trains. Has anyone else ever done it this way? Thanks in advance.
[:)]
I’ve never tried it that way, but I don’t see any problem. Be very careful in cutting the rails. If you cut too close to the switch, it’s easy to trim. If you cut too far, then you’ll have to put in a section.
What is wrong with your Atlas switches?
[:)] [:)]
If it is going to be a while and you want to run some trains, why not temporarily lay some flex? If you hold it down with a very thin layer of silicone caulk, it will come up easily when you are ready for the final placement of the track.
Really, it should be no different from inserting a single section of custom cut flex into your trackplan. The difference will be that you will have to overlay the turnout that is already too large, mark where the ends of the rails extant are, and then cut. It should work with some care.
What were the problems with the Atlas turnouts ? Maybe folks here can help you fix them before you get too far with the mainline. Many of us here use Atlas turnouts.
Not to be the sole voice of dissent, but…
It’s generally best to start with the most complex trackwork (i.e., turnouts) first and then work away from them. In fact, Bob Hayden and Dave Frary recommend soldering your crossovers and yard ladders at the workbench, installing them as one piece on the layout.
This four-turnout interlocking was my “milepost zero.” I installed it first and worked from there:
Whatever your turnout problem is, I recommend you solve it first before you start laying the rest of the track. Otherwise, things may not fit the way you want.
Thanks for the replies everyone
I was only having problems with the #7 code 55 turnouts. The point rails where bent way out of whack and the actual points were very blunt and didn’t rest against the stock rails. When I tried to fix all this the washers that hinge the point rails to the closure rails broke off and it was impossible to get them back on.
Dave, you make a very good point (although I’m a little worried about your disclaimer [(-D]). There are a few areas that call for some complex track work with multiple turnouts and I think it will be a lot easier to start from there. I should be able to order some hand laying supplies within the next month anyway, so I won’t have to wait too much longer. Thanks again.
CSXFAN:
You are suffering from ‘shoddy’ workmanship, and need to change brands. Turnouts are what cause most derailments, so is not the place to save money, ‘Cheep’ is for the birds.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/552-387
I disagree with Dave V’s advice: LAY your track first if you want. (A Zoning saw cuts out sections where switches go). (2) I think soldering turnouts is bad advice. It can a. damage the track b. preclude reuse c. make replacements difficult d. void any warranties.
I’m not saying Dave is wrong,- just I wouldn’t decommend it.
It’s best if you lay track and turnouts together (because it’s easier), period!
The turnouts did not survive the poor workmanship and design. Throw them away and pick a better brand. I echo Don and say that Turnouts are not the place to cheapen your track expenses. But dont go all the way to Kato either.
Blunt points can be filed. Out of gauge track can either be filed down a little bit or blocked down (Or spiked down at the proper gauge)
I actually dropped a Atlas number 6 turnout directly into what was once a single track main. I used a dremel cutting tool. What I did was lay the switch on top of the main track and used a marker to lightly mark the ends of the switch where the track needs to be cut.
Then carefully (With eye protection) cut straight down and chopped the section of main out. Luckily the new switch dropped straight into the gap with JUST ENOUGH wiggle room and gaps for the joiners to slide over and close the gap.
I would have gone atlas switches myself but continual complaints from locals about failing points, bad points, failure of the stamped point blocks and poor gauging of the Frog/gaurd and everything else led me not to consider atlas switches.
However, should a atlas fail, it is easy to chop THEM out and replace with ANOTHER atlas. The problem then becomes how often (And how much $) you spend over time before ripping the whole thing back up.
The Host railroad is:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v716/LarryCrabb/?
And the video of the switch that was installed is:
http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x173/fallsvalleyrr/?action=view¤t=MovingMeet-1.flv
As a long-time advocate (and practitioner) of hand-laid specialwork, I do not hesitate to insert a piece of flex and build right on by a spot where a turnout will eventually be. I do lay the fixed (Atlas code 100 flex) rail through the line of the turnout’s eventual stock rail, and insert a joint in the part of the sliding rail that will eventually have to be removed to insert the frog and closure rail. Putting that joint about where the closure rails have to bend to form the frog flangeways allows cutting a frog point in the rail from the flex, when, as and if. During (in place) construction, the other piece of sliding rail can be spread to the line of the other stock rail, or pulled to use in making the closure rails, guard rails and points. I also insert whatever insulated rail joiners will eventually be required to isolate rail sections for detection and control.
Using that method, it is entirely possible to put in a single track to run on, then come back and end up with a major classification yard plus adjacent multi-track passenger station after all the (soldering flux) smoke clears. That is exactly what will happen at Tomikawa, once the netherworld passenger staging facility at Minamijima is finished enough to be covered over.
[Actually, the track through Tomikawa will be laid TEMPORARILY with Atlas Code 100. The permanent work will involve code 100 specialwork (on wood ties) and code 83 flex (on concrete ties,) plus some code 70 hand laid on spurs. The single track mainline from Tomikawa to Haruyama will be laid with concrete-tie Code 83 to start with.]
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - if I ever get the netherworld finished)
A “zoning saw?” That is a new one for me, Don. Would you elaborate or provide a link, please?
I too have used a Dremel tool and removed track and put in a turnout. But it’s easier if you do the turnout at the same time as you do the track. One tracklaying tip that helped me was to use fixed curve track (which will bend if you cut plastic between the ties in back (this is how flex track was invented)). If the track coming into or out of the turnout is curved, I think I get better work if I use a piece of fixed curve track right before the turnout. Strong curves in flex have some spring in them and they will move when you cut them. Don’t like thos kinks.
But sure, you can, with a Dremel, add a turnout. I call it “track surgery”.
I haven’t been soldering my turnouts. I use Peco Insulfrogs and switch them by hand. I use Peco flex track. Some of my steam engines (I am N guage) stall on the turnout if they are going real slow, and I occasionally see some sparks when the wheels hit the opposite rail at the frog. But all in all, it’s working pretty good.
I believe he means “Zona” saw…Great for cutting track.
Not to make a big deal out of it, but flex track was around before plastic ties. [:D][:D]
Wayne
Now I will say, I did have a turnout go bad once, and I had to replace it. Removing it was challenging, but not as bad as I thought it would be. I clipped the rails on the turnout side of the joints with rail nippers. Then lift the turnout out. A quick pass with a 140 W iron loosens the solder, and you can slip the old joiners off. Slip new joiners on the flextrack ends and place the new turnout. 30 minutes and you’re done.
Thank-you. I’ll google it.
Edit - D’OH!!! I have one of these!
Would you believe flex roadbed? That’s what we made out of Tru-Scale tangent roadbed by cutting about 80% of the way across it, from opposite sides, between the milled ties. I’m not sure, but that may have come before atlas fiber-tie flex. Had to handle it VERY carefully after it was cut, because it was as fragile as glass.
Chuck (who just dated himself terribly - modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Thanks for all the responses guys.
My biggest concern is getting the turnout to fit in the spot. I don’t see a good way to get the rail joiners in along with the turnout without ripping up more track. Also, about 1/3 of all my turnouts will be curved. Trying to fit a turnout into a curved piece of flex track without the rail kinking doesn’t sound like very much fun.
The good news is I just got a part time job so those hand laying supplies may be coming sooner than I thought! [:)]
To get the rail joiners in you have to remove enough ties to allow the rail joiner to slide all the way up one section of rail, then the switch will drop in and you can slide it back. Use long nose pliers, its not too hard. Then cut the “spikes” off the ties, slide them under the rail with removed ties and glue them back in.
Boy do I feel like a [D)]! It’s almost too simple! Thanks for pointing that out.