I getting ready to lay track on rigid styrofoam, first gluing (Liquid Nails) cork roadbed to the foam and then track to cork. Have been reading the many threads on this subject and I’m a little reluctant to take the leap of faith. Past experience with Homasote on plywood, but wanted lightweight module this time. Any good reasons not to procede?
I have done it and plan to do more. I will be interested in what the more experienced modelers have to say. It has worked well for me. My main loop is laid on the plywood, but that laid on the foam seems to work fine. In my yard I laid the track direcly on the foam without roadbed. I am interested in seeing what is bad about this approach.
I use acrylic caulk to affix my track on the section of the layout that I built using styrofoam. Even after ballasting, it’s not that noisy.
I’ve got 2" strofoam insulation glued to 3/8" plywood. The track is glued to cork roadbed which is glued to the styrofoam. I used cheap latex caulk to glue the track to the cork, the cork to the styrofoam and the styrofoam to the plywood. No problems. The only thing I’d change for you is to use latex caulk instead of liquid nails to attach the track to the cork. Spread it paper thin. It holds well, but you can still remove and reuse the track by sliding a putty knife under it. I don’t know if you can do that with liquid nails. Don’t glue down your turnouts, though. Pin them in place.
If you are gun shy about laying and glueing the cork and track down, as innot 100% sure where you want yoru track… I would suggest useing pins to push through and hold it. I found Atlas nails worked out on the straights but the pins worked perfect. You can pin down your entire route and run it to see if you like it, then can come back and glue once your comfotable.
I did the same, but used longer “T” pins (I think Woodland Scenics sells them). They’re really good for holding the track in place while the adhesive is curing. It seems everybody’s recommending latex caulk these days, I used 3M Spray77 contact cement which worked very well, even with the cork and foam (only spray a light coat on the foam), but you do only have a few seconds to make any adjustments. It also comes up pretty easy with a putty knife and there’s no residue that needs to be scraped off.