I’ve been given the go ahead by spousal unit to start a reasonable sized layout in our downstairs rec (wreck) room. Now, we are in a townhome so space use is important. Even though my permissions are “Just build it and we will find places for everything it displaces,” I’d like to keep the space impact as low as possible.
More important information:
this layout will be in an area where young children will be.
my older children (6 and 7) will want to help build / play with it.
its my first ‘layout’ in about 20 years.
I am trying to get a better paying job and if that happens it may require a cross country move.
I’ve attached a picture with my initial idea. I am thinking modular is the way to go and have broken the table down into 4 parts:
‘A’ and ‘B’ are 2’x 8’ pieces
‘C’ and ‘D’ are 1.5’x 4’ pieces and will be the ‘duck unders’
‘C’ will be designed to be removed and stored underneath ‘A’, and similarly, ‘D’ will be stored under ‘B’. When ‘C’ and ‘D’ are stored, ‘A’ and ‘B’ can be pushed together to minimize the foot print on the room.
The heavy black line represents a wall.
I had the standard 4x8 when i was a kid and loved it, but now see all the pitfalls and shortcomings of a 4x8. Since my position will have my layout ‘stuck’ in a corner, i decided to rip the 4x8 in half and then add two 1.5’ x 4 extentions to come up with an 8’x8’ over all with a center operations area.
Now comes the harder part… getting a working track plan.
As a kid, i really didn’t know, nor care, about prototypical operations. I had my loop and ‘yard’ and the GP40-2 hauled my cars in a circle… and i was happy. Now, however, I’m getting into railfanning and enjoy learnin
Your concept is hardly “abnormal”, it’s only the commercial press that makes island layouts seem like the only small layout choice. “Doughnut” style layouts have been around since the start of the hobby.
Some doughnut-style layout plans don’t take advantage of the fact that there is an inside and an outside to these configurations. When placed against a wall, it’s often possible to create three different areas of layout: hidden staging, a visible “main line”, and a visually isolated branch. This staging can at the same elevation as the main line, it’s secluded behind a backdrop.
Unlike some popular examples, it’s not necessary to make all the layout sections the same depth, nor to cut them all from one sheet of plywood. In fact, there are good reasons for varying benchwork depth (to provide staging and a visible scene, for instance, or to provide one narrower area for the duckunder.)
Here’s a quick crude sketch of one way to do it.
This isn’t exactly fitted to your space and needs, it’s a quick example I drew for a client. But I think it suggests some of these ideas. Best of luck with your layout.
i am building a 5 feet wide by 5 feet long layout that is a sectional layout so i can add on. you should look into a sectional layout then if you move out of the town house you can take the layout with you plus you can even take it to model train shows.
A review of the current Layout Benchwork Legs would be insightful. Model railroading layouts, regardless of configuration & dimensions, may also be free-standing, without any attachment to surrounding walls.
@Maddog: Awesome stuff. I was actually taking inspiration from that exact layout. Thanks for the confirmation that I’m, ahem, on the right track. =D
@Cuyama: I merely ment abnormal in that the layout will be designed to be partially disassembled and reassembled as part of its normal lifecycle. But in retrospect, yeah, I guess its not that out of the ordinary.
Good ideas for the staging tracks, thanks!
@nscale rob: Modular is pretty much what I am doing. Except that 2 of the modules will be 8 ft long
@tgindy: Thanks for the link, I was just starting to think about the legwork.
Since you want to compress the layout in the corner for storage I suggest you make the sections A&B 28" wide by 8’ long. 28" will pass through the average inside door without having to be turned sideways.
The two pushed together sections will now be 4’8" by 8’. Design your layout so that tracks on A&B join when pushed together to form a loop. This way the layout can be operated when stored and can have 24" radius curves.
Use the 20" by 8’ pieces for sections C&D. These can be shortened if needed, but I would make them as long as possible. After all they will only be used part of the time when you have a crowd around the layout.
Keep in mind that for young children the layout will have to be fairly low so they can work on it and run the trains. Your duckunders are really going to be crawl unders.
Another thought, you don’t say what your room dimensions are or what restrictions you face. It might be more feasible to make a 5’x10’ (or 5’x12’ or other size) layout on wheels that rolls in and out of the corner, thus avoiding duckunders.
Awesome ideas Ironrooster. I really like the 28" ideas. And yeah, I know the duck unders are going to be crawl unders, but I am busy performing experiments with my kids to see how low is too low, and how high is just right =D They are very willing test subjects.
I had a 4x8 setup on between two school tables and that height seemed to be okay for everyone except my 4 year old boy… who used the excuse to perform monkey like maneuvers on various pieces of furniture.
As for the room it will be in: the room is about 18x26 and is used for many things in our house: TV room, kids play room and home school room… so 4x8 is a large portion of the room. This makes 5x10 or 5x12 a bit too much space at the moment.
Very similar space to my old 8x12 layout. I liek the HoG plan, expanded out makes it even better.
Keep the layout reasonably high - just what that is depends on how tall you are. Put bookshelves underneath to hold books, trains, whatever. If you can, put shelves above the layout - this makes for a lighting valcne as well as gives you additional storage. If you need somethign nicer and more hidden - consider kitchen-type cabonets with noce doors. Still get the lighting valance but hidden instead of open storage.
