What is the proper spacing in between tracks running side by side, whether on curves, or straight, ie, on a double main line? Also, what is the proper distance from the edges of your layout to the closest track? I remember reading somewhere that 2" is the minimum distance between centerlines of tracks running parallel to each other. Should this 2" also apply to the minimum distance from layout edge to centerline of any track running up alongside the edge? Need help and advice. Thanks guys.
That 2" should be a min. On curves 2 1/2" works better. This allows enough clearance for pilot overhangs and long equipment overhanging between the truck centers. Long runs of double track mainline look more prototypical at a closer spacing. Just let the track open up at the tranitions into the turns. 2" of side clearance from centerline is somewhat tight to the layout edge. There would barely be clearance to a fascia at that point. I would shoot for 2- 2 1/2" from the side of the rail if the plan allows. This would definately be a place for lexan or plexi for guard rails.
Bob K.
Sounds like you are working in HO. Some of the distance isn’t related to the scale of the trains so much as the scale of your fingers. If you have a yard where you want to fiddle with cars, you may want to add an inch.
According to Track Planning for Realistic Operation, two inches between track centerlines on the straight sections, with at least two-and-a-quarter on curves. If you don’t have this book, I strongly recommend it.
No I don’t have the book. But your advice is worth more to me than the book at this point. Thanks for the info and for your time. GL with your layouts.
In HO, you can get away with 1 1/2 inch spacing on straight track, but there’s no wiggle room. On the mains, 2 inch is a better spacing, going out to 2 1/2 inchs on the curves (thats what I do).
Spacing on yard tracks is largely dictated by the size of your fingers. I use 2 1/4 inches.
Thanks for the help guys. Sorry to be a mooch when it comes to asking questions. I didn’t think a need to buy the book Jacob mentioned because I am working off a set design from L. Sassi. However, I’ll break down and buy. I’m sure I am going to run into tons more areas that the book will I’m sure cover. Thks.
Just IMHO, but I think that’s dangerous advice for a newcomer. 1.5" in HO scales out to just 10’ 10.5" (130.5"). The standard width of prototype freight cars (“Plate “C”, for example) is 10’8”. That leaves only a few scale inches allowance for imperfections in laying parallel track or for accommodating older models that weren’t always built precisely to scale.
Better, IMHO, to stick with the figures established by the NMRA (that I posted earlier) or published in Mr. Armstrong’s books to allow for construction by mere mortals.
It’s worth noting that even the prototype doesn’t build 'em that close together.
I have decided, good or bad, on 2" spacing for all track from the edges of the layout, 2" for any straights running side-by-side (actually, as I look again at the trackplan, there are none), and 2 1/2" spacing for tracks running side by side on the curves (I have one such curve). Should end up being safe with this. Plan is not complicated at all (A Realistic HO Layout for Beginners). I have mirrored and flipped the Sassi plan as it appears in publication. I copied and scanned the plan as it appears in the book, and dropped the image into Paint Shop Pro. There I mirrored then flipped the image. That is the plan I will be modeling.
While he offers the ‘to-do’ of building the layout, he does not go into a great amount of detail into the ‘why, or how’ he’s doing things. Once my Peco turnouts arrive, I can start laying out the plan and get ready for cutting. Again, thanks for help with spacing, as Sassi doesn’t touch on the subject at all.
Kansas, if you are (ever) going to run articulated steamers or longer passenger cars, you should beware the dreaded overhang on tight curves. I don’t know this plan that you are duplicating, but guess that the planner knew his stuff. However, I have a Challenger that hangs way out there at the cab end on 22" curves. Twenty-two inch curves mighty need another 1/2" separation if you are going to run long-boilered and articulated steamers. Nit-picky, I know, but…
Hense my comment about no wiggle room. Not something I’d recommend, but I have seen it done.
Also, I prefer to leave 6 inches of more between the fascia and track. This allows for some scenery in front of the track, and gives a buffer zone to keep your prized locomotive from plunging to the floor.
I agree I’d like to leave 6" or more from the edges, but if I do that, my curves wouldn’t fit into even #4 turnouts? I have to live with a 4’ X 8’, and to have anything close to somewhat realistic radii on curves, I’m going to have to creep somewhat closely to the edges. I just don’t want the tracks to be up to, on, or over the edge.
Perhaps you can do what I did. Where my curves came uncomfortably close to the edges, I put a foam “rock or earthen berm” outboard of the curve or straight that is high enough that a loco that tumbles over on its side will be detained by the berm. The low lip of the berm commences at the low edge of the ballast.
If the space is really tight, use 1/4" ply or similar product and build a 2" lip at the edge of the layout. Add to its front a thin rock cut, far enough away that your longer rolling stock or locos don’t make contact with it on the curves when they hang over the side.