Is there an easy way to fill the holes once i’ve ballasted the track and removed the spikes ?
TIA
Just curious why your removing the spikes? A dab of body putty and a little paint will hide the holes.
Terry,
Why do you remove the spikes? The holes can’t be very large and I would guess you’d have to strain the eyes to find them once the rails are ballasted…I guess this problem could be eliminated by using latex caulk to glue down the track. Do you spike in the middle of the tie or next to the rails? A friend of mine spikes and he places the spike on the outside of the track through the ties just as the prototype does. Once he ballasts the track, the spike heads are just about invisible.
Don Z.
PS Are you coming to Round Rock next month for the Austin Model Railroad Association Train Show?
Cause their big and ugly and really show up when i run my Train Cam around the track
Mine are in the middle so they show up and look bad
Not sure if i’ll make it for the Show I’m trying to talk Tom P into comming down here Nov 18 th
to help me run trains for the layout tour
I’ve been up there twice He owes me !!! LOL
I assume you’re talking about the track nail holes in the center of the tie. You could try to get a furniture repair stick in the same color as your tie and just swipe it across the holes. These are a waxy type substance designed to hide furniture nicks and come in a variety of colors.
Good luck
Paul
Whoo Hoo !
That’s what i’m talking about !
That does sound easy !
Thanks Paul !!!
Use an older Xuron track nipper to cut off the heads as flush to the tie surfaces as you can, and then weather the tracks between the rails like Joe Fugate suggests we should.
Put little dabs of ‘rusty steel’ paint on the nailheads and all the rest of the ties and pretend they’re date nails.
OTOH, if you own an jeweler’s microengraver, you can carve real dates into them. Just remember that ties don’t last forever. Keep the dates in line with your operating era.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
We spike at the rails too, not in the middle. Irregardless, locos with sound; and the speaker in the fuel tank will grab any loose spikes because of the magnet. - it happened to us : ) causing a rather unhappy derailment.
That’s why the first thing that runs (slides) down my newly-spiked trackwork is a big, powerful under-track uncoupling magnet, still in its original packaging.
I also use it to retrieve dropped screws from hard-to-reach locations.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)