If, cost was absolutely no factor in your decision, what type of track would you buy?
(Based on quality, appearance and performance not based on any personal bias – like me who is a tubular fan)
As always, many thanks.
FasTrack for the following reasons:
It’s easy to put together
It has great electrical conductivity
It looks nice (especially when painted)
No ballasting required
Magnatraction works on it
Switches are super reliable
Can be set up on a floor, carpet, table, grass, just about anywhere
Man, thats a tough question, I am dumb enough to think I want a stricly prewar layout, a strictly postwar layout and a strictly AF layout and then maybe also a hirail layout. Put em all together and maybe you have gargraves?? with Ross switches money being no object mind you…
But I think, like you, I am tubular and will build my next layout of tubular as have been the last three.
I will say this, after dabbling with fastrack this christmas, I like it too.
You can do the same thing with accesories, do you like the non scale prewar style operating accesories or do you prefer the newer more realistic stuff? I guess I like a little of both…
Fastrack for the above reasons, but lately I’ve been considering the Atlas track. Not really sold on the switches, yet. I’ve seen them fall apart. Only real reason to consider Atlas was the noise issue and the way the Atlas looks.
So, put me down for Fastrack, Atlas at 2nd place.
Getting rid of Atlas for FasTrack. Too many problems with operating cars and the toy train elements [:)]. Atlas is a great choice for the scale end of the hobby though.
FasTrack seems to me to be the next evolution of tubular . I did consider tubular, however I liked the slightly wider radius (36 and 48 is what my space would allow) and choices in switch sizes.
- Luther
If I were starting from scratch, I’d probably choose Fastrack. I have some that I’ve used for temporary layouts and have been very pleased with it. Only downside to Fastrack (for me) is no O-31 or O-27 curves for use on my door-top temporary layouts.
I would not buy any more Realtrax. I’ve had some problems with this year’s Christmas layout. Rails do not line up well (yes, track is connected properly). Fastrack rails line up right every time.
As I already have a sizeable collection of tubular, I’d probably try to acquire some really good postwar switches (O22s for my O gauge track, 1121’s for my O-27) and some O-42 curves.
I like the classic look of tubular. I wouldn’t be able to decide between O profile black ties or O-27 profile brown ties. I’ve always liked the look of O-22 switches and their huge colorful lanterns and remotes. Fastrack sounds nice on paper, but I don’t think I can stand the “plastic” look. I like the look of tubular’s all metal and real stone roadbed. Hopefully I didn’t upset any Fastrack owners. It could look nice. Jimijo’s layout is beautiful.
If money was no object. ROSS. Plenty of choices in both curved radius as well as turnouts for just about any application. Also you have a choice of switch motor type. I prefer under the table Tortoise or Caboose Ind. ground throws. You also can get them set up with DZ switch machines or even use the air type. Any problems or special applications you are dealing with products made in the US and when you call you will be talking with people that actually build them.
You know, some folks are tubular fans for reasons of quality, appearance, and performance, so the terms of your poll are invalid.
The answer also depends, as some have ntoed, on intended purpose. For my son’s hollow core door layout, I used O27 track and would not change that no matter how much money I had. If I had the room to use a 36" door, I’d use Marx O34, an O27 derivative.
For the display layout I take to shows, I use O27 (in 27" and 42") as well to maximize number of tracks on a 4x8.
For the main layout at home, I used Gargraves because I needed flextrack for the curves. If cost were no object, I’d consider Atlas, but I am not happy with the flimsy nature of their rail joiners.
For my Standard Gauge layout, I use traditional tubular, not Gargraves. SG trains are unabashedly tinplate and need the look of tubular track. You may call that decision “personal bias,” but it is an aesthetic choice.
For our On30 line, I use On30 Peco. I am not detered by the tie length or spacing, I like the code 100 rail (as opposed to ME’s On30 track), and the switches are the most operator friendly in On30.
Tubular.the fact that you can cut and match is my most important need.
Ed
I was thinking about this the other day. How do you paint your Fastrack to make it look better??
Being a hi-railer, I prefer more realistic track. I would recommend Atlas, however, their switches have conductivity issues that are inexecusable given the cost. If I had to start over, I would go with Gargraves or Scaletrax.
Regards,
JO
otftch (Ed) and possibly others:
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There are charts available that permit quite a few exotic lengths to be created out of stock sizes of FasTrack;
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It is possible to custom-cut FasTrack to any length necessary to within 1/32 inch, if you are the least bit handy with tools – dead-bang on if you are good.
Perhaps the best way to do this is two make two cuts, not just one. That is, cut a chunk out of the middle* of a piece of track and glue the ends back together. Then solder jumpers under the track to restore good electrical connectivity.
For some very creative ideas of what can be done with FasTrack I recommend the FasTrack forum on Yahoo. You have to register to be able to read the posts (“messages”) but there is no cost involved and it’s well worth it, IMHO.
*Note (edit) this two-cut technique is not mine, but I can’t recall where I learned it. If anyone knows please post it as somebody deserves the credit for a very bright idea.
Here is my painted FasTrack.
I used a wash of black acryllic paint to darken the roadbed and bring out the detail of the molded ballast.
Jim
Jim, your track looks great, but just to be clear, did you only put a wash on the plastic roadbed? Have you painted the sides of your rails rust colored like some do? It looks like the ballast wash gives more bang for the time in appearance than painted the risl would?
Ross switches and Ross track.
No one offers the switch variety that Ross does. On my new layout, I’ve gone with Ross switches and Gargraves track.
I have no complaints and am very happy with this combination.
Jim
Great responses and lots of ‘food for thought’. Thanks to all.
I didn’t paint the rails (too lazy). Just the plastic ballast/roadbed. The image on the cover of the Feb. 2008 issue of CTT shows the painted FasTrack in great detail. If you don’t have the issue, click HERE to see it.
Jim
If I was starting out from scratch again and had unlimited funds, I’d go with Ross all the way. Since i’m a bit of a miser[:)], I went with Atlas. I had a few problems with early production switches, but managed to fix all but one. that one got trashed, kept the switch motor for spares. I don’t run Postwar engines,(and probably never will) so not having steel rails isn’t a problem. I might go with Scaletrax— I really like the low rail profile. Atlas should have used code 125 instead of code 148 rail.
I use tubular track on my layout with added ties and weathering… it looks great, is inexpensive, readily availible, trouble free and can be cut for a custom fit. I would stay with the tubular track instead of going to anything else.