Track-train derailment issue

Classic Toy Trains Forum
1

I have a vintage Lionel 224 steam engine whose tender de-rails over a particular Atlas switch. If it is entering the switch such that the switch points are trailing the tender as it passes, the tender rolls over on it’s side. I’ve never seen a toy train do this before. This locomotive and tender negotiate the other Atlas switches I have without any problems.

Let me add that Atlas switches and track are really good products, in fact, I recommend them. My Atlas track components are the most reliable and least de-railment prone I have other than my one Ross Custom switch.

Any ideas as to what’s going on? Thanks in advance.

George

2

Sounds like you need to check the wheel gauge in the tender. (gauge is the spacing between the wheel flanges on the axles) also beside just checking the gauge make sure the wheel pairs on each truck are parallel if they are offset this could also be causeing your problems. Use a straight edge to check for parallel.

3

overall - It has been posted by others here that the Atlas switches aren’t too friendly to some of the older equipment. A member recently gave up his lot of Atlas track due to that reason. All depends on what your passion is: prewar/postwar or modern.

4

George, on this particular switch, does it stil derail if going through it the other way?

5

Does this tender have sliding shoes? If so a shave on the leading edge will help. I’ve also added weight to a couple to “hold them down”.

6

cnw1995,

I don’t remember it doing that. I will test it again to make sure.

Thanks,

George

7

I was a strong Atlas supporter until I realized that I was a TOY train operator at heart. Atlas is great for some of the newer scale offerings. However, for post war rolling stock (especially sliding shoes) and even some of the newer O-27 type equipment it just seems Atlas has issues. I also wanted magnatraction to work. I am in the process of rebuilding to a new plan with FasTrack.

Here are some learnings from my experiences with Atlas switches (O-54 and O-45, steel and nickel silver):

  1. Make sure the points are throwing all the way. I found the switch machines need 14 - 16 volts with enough amperage to make them snap.

  2. I am not sure which way you are running through the switch - if you are heading into the points, double check to make sure the very end of the points are completely within the notch they rest in on the inside of the rail. I had one switch that had thicker points than all the rest - this caused a narrower than normal guage thereby causing the rear truck of a Mikado to jump and sometimes short. I ground down the thickness of the point with a Dremel until it tucked into the notch within the rail.

  3. If you have sliding shoe cars, make sure you install the ramp Atlas supplied. That will help with shoed cars coming into the switch. I also had shoed cars “hop” and nearly derail when coming into the switch on the non diverging leg. A sharp edge on the frog in the area of the car shoe caused this. It only happened on one switch and with one particular car. Make sure the shoe is floats on the truck as it is supposed to. I ended up rounding the sharp edge of the frog again with the Dre

8

Luther, you caught where my mind was going…

9

At some point in it’s life, this tender had it’s sliding shoes removed. I bought the engine and tender from a dealer on Dec. 14, 2007.The engine runs great and very smoothly. The air whistle in the tender works well too. I would like it to be a little better puller, but it does ok. I am going to measure the wheels with a micrometer as suggested above when I get home. Thanks for all of the replies.

George