I’m looking for some suggestions on good, reliable, and simple to install Code 83 track? Which track is better to use on mainlines, and which for yards, spurs, etc?
Also, can two track sizes be mixed on a layout? And if so, is there such a thing as a piece of transitional track that is placed between the two sizes?
Thanks,
Chris667
it sounds as if you’re talking about HO scale; I’m in N, but I used to be into HO up until 4 years ago, and I can answer just about all your questions.
As for track, when I was in HO, the best brands were: Shinnohanra (Walthers, Peco, Atlas, Micro-Engineering , & Kato “Uni-Track” and from everything I’ve read, they still are.
Yes, two brands of track can be mixed. I did it in HO, I’m currently doing it in N.
I think Micro-Engineering makes “transition joiners” for HO. And Kato makes short peices of transition track for joining Kato “Uni-Track” to other brands.
And, to join different sizes of rail-called “code”-you can also put a rail joiner on the larger rail-for instance, to join Code 83 to Code 100 put a Code 100 joiner on the Code 100 rail-flatten the part of the joiner that sticks off of the rail, placee the other rail on top of the joiner, and solder the two togethher.
You sound like a beginner, so I reccomend you get some of the GREAT “how-to” books on Model Railroading from KALMBACH PUBLISHING, they’re availible from your LHS (Local Hobby Shop), online or through mail order from a number of dealers, or from Kalmbachs web site at WWW.KALMBACH.COM/BOOKS Also, a great online forum for all your questions is at:WWW.ATLASSRR.COM
Thanks for all your information Snowey. It will certainly be put to good use.
(PS) You were correct – I am building an HO scale layout!
Thanks,
Chris667
glad I could be of help! One more thing that I forgot to add: there is a way to join the UNI-TRACK to regular track without using the Kato transition track, however I don’t know it but I’m sure someone else does!
Was I correct in assuming that you’re a beginnner?
If so, welcome! And remember: no part of a layout has to be permanent. If you’re not satisfied with something, or you make a mistake, rip it up and start over. It’s your layout, and none’s hurrying you through it, so just take your time with it.
The Kato joiners are easily removed. The track can then be connected to regular track usind standard rail joiners.
[2c] There’s another slight difference in brands of track other than price. The thickness and spcing of the ties and details such as tie plates and spike heads.
I haven’t bought track with plastic roadbed, so I couldn’t say what brands have compatable roadbeds.
Which is better? If you’e talking nichol silver, It’s all good. It’s just a matter of cost and preference.
As for rail size, modern class 1 railroads use heavy rail which code 83 generally is used to model. Code 100 would be like super duty rail. Personally I’m planing on using code 100 for my main line and sidings (because I have so much from my first layout) and code 83 for my yard and engine terminal trackage. Maybe hand laid code 70 or 55 for old spurs or abandoned tracks.
Old time railroads or low budget branch lines who don’t have the money to keep up with the ever increasing weights of modern cars, use a rather light duty rail (see March 2004Trains Magizine cover story ). So using code 70 for the main line and code 55 for yards and spurs would be appropriate to use for modeling the poorest of branch lines or nineteeth century trackage.
HOWEVER many models have wheels with too deep of a flange to use on code 55 and maybe even code 70. You would have to follow NMRA standards and recomended practices for fine scale.
I use code 70 rail exclusively on my layout. All wheel flanges are RP-25. I have had no problem using this combination. I do take one precaution, I only spike the rail on the outside edge so no spike heads can loosen and bugger the works. I am currently using Shinohara flex track and handlaid turnouts. I place a drop of ACC on every spike to help hold them in place. So far, so good.
Tom
Transitions between different rail sizes are easy to make yourself if you have a little basic skill at soldering. Here’s how:
Slip a rail joiner halfway on the end of the larger rail. Use flatnose pliers to flatten the open half of the rail joiner.
Solder the rail joiner to the rail, and tin the top surface of the flattened half of the joiner. (“Tin” means heat the work and melt a little solder onto it.)
Lay the end of the smaller rail over the flattened end of the joiner and check to see if it matches the height of the larger rail. If it’s too high, file the flattened joiner until the rails line up.
Tin the bottom of the smaller rail, then solder it to the flattened joiner, making sure that the inside or gauge side of the rail head lines up with the larger rail.
If necessary, dress the joint with a small file to be sure it’s smooth.
This is very simple to do, takes less time than it took me to write this explanation, and gives you the ability to change rail sizes wherever you want.
So long,
Andy