If you have a say Bman 4-6-0 and only one axle pulling could you make the other two axles pull and give the train more traction while pulling?
This question has been on my mind for a long time!
what’d you do take the side rods off?
Maby you’re asking, “how might I power each driver on a bach. tenner?”
I think one might have to make a new frame, though it would depend on the size of the three motors you have.
No, did not take the rods off.
Was just “thinking” if each axle had a motor would it add better transfer power to the rail.
I am abit lame on asking questions on boards!
Its cool, all it took was a translation. I think all i’d take to get better pull would be to swap in a better motor, and if yours don’t got em, metal siderods and wheels.
I can think of a cupple options;
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buy three series one maulers (the green santa Fe ones) and dremel out the rear drive mechanisms them stuff each one in a forth shell. run the wires and hook up the rods.
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find three small motors from maby an indrestral aplication (so thay all run the same speed) and press the wheels onto the shafts and fit the base around em. Hook up and watch it go (as it pulles a compact car along).
hope that helps! If you do like to hear how it came out.
Why not look into using a BBT drive, an Aristo Pacific drive (part #29363 for $116)or a LGB Mogul drive (http://www.ridgeroadstation.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=20565019!205) for more pulling power?
-Brian
I normally build my models having a motor per axle. This does simplify the construction as no power has to be taken through conrods and flycranks. You do have the problem of setting all the worms and spurs to the same position duringh assembly, but after that (hopefully) everything still remains in sychrononisation -or it just binds itself solid!!!
On a personal note I have found that those models using mutiple motors are smoother at lower speed than those using a single one…
Tractive effort of one of my models I do is rather high, this is because most of my models are of NZ “Bush Lokeys” or similar where all the wheels are powered.
regards
ralph
Thank you guys these answers fill my question I had. [:)]
Well -if there is sufficient room -why not power the tender?
Steam tenders have a long and noble history -the only problem that was encountered with them was of course the steam plumbing. It should not take much to improvise an electric version???
This is my favourite Bush Lokey -the Price 16 wheeler. All wheels were powered and it had high and low gear!!!
This is my model -which has only one gear -but can push 1 gallon (UK=4.5litres) can of paint along the track infront of it. As in the original all 16wheels are powered…
regards
ralph
On a stock 10-wheeler, only the front and rear drivers actually touch the rails. The center driver is just there for looks. So, you’ve got two axles providing power. The connecting rod transfers power from the axle with the motor to the forward one. A second motor on that axle–while technically a possibility–wouldn’t gain you all that much. A bit more weight in the loco would be the first modification I’d make to improve traction. If that didn’t work, then I’d opt for one of Barry’s chassis. They’re pricey, but bulletproof.
Later,
K
“Only the #1 and #3 drivers touch the rails…” Ummm, [D)]what. Only the #1 and #3 drivers have flanges, and #2 has no flanges. All the wheels should touch the rail.
Thanks guys for the info!!! [:)]
Nice carcasim Snoq. Pass RR, I think this was assesed when someone rebuilt a mauler into an american.