When I run a train on my layout when it goes across a turnout my DigiTrax Zephyr controller flashes the shorting out message for a split second. It happens with all turnouts and it doesn’t stop the train or anything but I’m still concerned that this might be a problem. I use Atlas code 83 snap switches. Got any ideas as to why this is? Thanks!
Is it flashing a short on the locomotive or the whole train? Do all your cars have metal wheels?
You seem to be saying that this momentary short happens on every turnout with every engine. Is this correct?
Rich
Look at the part of the frog where the rails almost come together. A wheel on the loco’s may be bridging these rails of opposite polarity causing a quick short circuit. Paint on some nail polish or enamel paint about 1/8" to 1/4" past the plastic frog point. Let it dry and see if it helps.
I’ve narrowed it down to it happens only when the loco is in reverse and going across a turnout with its points leading to the curved part of it. It happens with or without any cars so I’m assuming it’s the loco but it’s fine when it’s going forwards…
Here’s the spot where shorts usually occur. Some people coat the inside of the rails with nail polish at this spot. Others file the gap a little larger. I’ve filed the gap with good results.
Aha, that’s exactly where I’m having trouble! I positioned the loco just right over that part of the turnout and got the system to fully short out. I’ll test the nail polish fix out on one of them and see how it goes. Thanks for everyone’s help!
I don’t see anywhere that you mention the type / manufacturer of the locomotive. It seems to be the culprit. I would check to see if the wheels are in gauge. It’s an easy fix with most locomotives and better than modifying your turnouts.
John Timm
It’s an Atlas RS-1. Not sure how to fix the wheel gauge though if that is the problem…
Well, if it is just that one loco and it happens on all of the turnouts, there is no point in applying nail polish on all of the turnouts. Fix the out of gauge wheels on the loco.
Rich
I am having the same problem. I am using a Digitrax Zypher and Atlas code 100 track with #4 an 6 turnouts. I have 2 DCC locos, one a smaller Proto 2000 H10-44 with somewat narrow wheels, the other a Proto 2000 F7-A with slightly wider wheels. The H10-44 runs the turnouts fine and the F7A with wider wheels mometairly shorts out at the turnouts. I have tried nail polish with limited success.
Well the only catch is that it is my only loco so I can’t narrow it down to that one loco…
But it sounds like the most likely place to start. I have several Atlas locomotives, but not an RS-1. However, if it is like the others, the fix is not hard and in doing so you will learn something about maintaining and repairing it. The Atlas website has instructions on how to take off the shell. You really don’t have to do so, but it is a way to keep from breaking or losing parts while the unit is upside down.
First, get an NMRA gauge and check all four axles. If you have never disassembled a locomotive, it is easier than it appears. Just go slowly and be patient. If something falls out, look at the exploded diagram that came in the original box and put it back in the right place.
There is a plastic clip on the bottom of each truck that holds everything together under tension. Once you slip the clip off with a (very) small screwdriver, the axles should drop right out. If the gauge is wide, finger pressure between the thumb and forefinger on the center of both wheels should push it into gauge. If the gauge is too narrow, twist one wheel in one direction and the other in the opposite direction simultaneously while pulling outward on both wheels. Check with the gauge to see if the axle is in spec. If so, re-assemble the truck and run it through the turnout without the shell (if the headlight is wired to the shell, this may not be possible. You don’t want to tear out any wires).
Let us know what happens or if you get stuck.
John Timm
Another thing that has worked for me is to take a flat blade screwdriver and put it in the gap. Then twist a little bit to open the gap some. Be careful though.
Also check the guard rail opposite of the gap. Sometimes there is too much room in the guard rail which allows the wheel to shift over.
Yeah, but that’s the point. If it is your only loco and it shorts on all of the turnouts, then it has the be the loco not the turnouts.
Rich
I had a few trains that would do it. I found that if you can tune the turnout, then you won’t have to worry about wobbly wheels from re-gauging the loco. Also you’ll have less potential trouble with future loco’s. Once I tuned the few I had issues with the problems didn’t re-appear.
Well I’d rather avoid having to modify all my turnouts and not actually fix the problem with the loco. I found a spare loco with DCC that I ran on the layout and it had no problems with the switches, so it must be my RS-1. I’ll try and get my hands on a gauge and see what happens.
Good Luck
So now I’m really confused… I got a gauge and checked the RS-1’s wheels, everything seemed fine. So I got curious and picked up the other loco I tested the track with… Seemed fine as well. Something doesn’t seem right here…
It may be that the wheels are in gauge but they are shifted to one side of the axle so that the truck is skewed going into the turnout. I have seen this happen a few times. Without pulling the axles out of the truck it would be hard to tell.
John Timm