If you were starting from scratch what kind of lighting would you use in a new train room. Valances vs. no valances, flush mounted flouresents, track? I would also like a way to have blue lights for night running. Phil
I prefer low wattage incandescents (15W and 25W) using a shadow-box low valance to give the layout a museum diorama look.
Here’s an example from my web site:
Here’s some links to where I discuss how this lighting works:
http://siskiyou-railfan.net/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.11
http://siskiyou-railfan.net/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.14
I’m very pleased with this kind of layout lighting, since it can be dimmed, runs cool, and is cheaper to install than florescents.
While not the prettiest…these are cheap:
I used clamp lights, attached to angle brackets mounted on the ceiling. Rather, then standard soft white bulbs, I used daylight bulbs, like Sylvania Daylight, Phillips Natrual Light, or GE Reveal bulbs.
Currently, two fixtures have blue bulbs. They are pointed so the light bounces off the ceiling rather then falling directly on the layout. But they cast strange shadows, so I’m thinking of replacing them with a string of blue christmas lights.
Edit: I replaced the old picture, with a more finished view.
Nick
I use the clamp-on’s and twisty flourescents for a directional lighting effect.
and a black plastic sheeting valence
I have a “what I did” at:
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/4x8/lighting/
Thank you if you visit
Harold
All of the above.
8 foot fluorescents for general lighting, track lighting to brighten specific areas (and to create strong shadows in one scene under a bridge) plus a row of recessed incandescents (dimmable) for low light situations. Valances are good if you can work them in. They keep the viewer from being blinded and hide the fixtures.
Joe’s idea of many low wattage bulbs is a good one as it eliminates harsh shadows and variable intensities where you don’t want them.
“Rope light” (used in theaters) should work well too, although I’ve only used it in customers’ houses and not on the layout.
Remember that you can get fluorescent bulbs in several color temperatures and can use filters or diffusers with some of them but most cannot be dimmed.
me im going with track lite
Joe’s example is the way most modeler’s are going. To create the shadowbox effect with black valance and black fascia. It creates a theater-type effect and drives your eye towards the scene.
I used hminky’s method. Two things I am going to change. I need to get some diffusers on the clamp on shells and I will replace the plastic sheet with some heavy black material my wife (bless her) picked up for $1 per yard.
Since the train room was intended to be a dining area, there’s a 6 bulb chandalier directly overhead, which uses 25 watt Reveal bulbs. If I want more light, or light from another angle, I have a 100-150-300 watt floor lamp, the kind where the bulb and shade face straight up. Both fixtures reflect a lot of light off the ceiling, giving a wide diffuse effect that prevents a lot of harsh shadows.
Between 0600 and 0800, the sun shines through a nearby window if I open the shade, giving a nice “simulation” of low angle dawn lighting. That’s my favorite of the three options.
For night operations, I have two strings of blue Christmas lights, wound around a 2" by 3" rectangle, over the operator’s left shoulder. This keeps the bulbs themselves out of view during operations, and strikes a good balance between point source shadows and diffuse source shadows with edges that are too soft.
The one problem w/ single bulbs, not spaced correctly, you pick up a dead zone or black area on the backdrop that isn’t lit. No big deal thought - LET THERE BE LIGHT!
I use a similar technique to what jfugate and many others are using, but I use very low wattage fluorescents. The valance is (will be) cut from white masonite sheets used for bathroom showers. The backs will be painted black. Later I am going to in stall blue rope lighting just below the main lighte for night operations. The rope lighting will be on a dimmer circuit. Here is a shot of the lighting as it is now, without the valence.
