I am having trouble trying to “ease” into a 2% grade. There seems to be a place where the rail has to bend vertically. I don’t want this bend to be at a rail joint but that is where it appears to occur. Any thoughts?
HO code 83
A piece of flextrack would “ease” into it pretty well. You might want to shim the end, so it’s not 0% right into 2% without any transition.
Just my [2c]
Solder the join flat (level), then it should bend like solid rail. You can also add shims to support the transition.
If you’re having a problem and this rail joint is too close, cut some flex back so that about 4-6" remains on the flat. Soldering the joiners should do it, the same as presoldering for curves, but cutting back the track is sure to solve the problem.
[#ditto] I suppose the soldered joints might/should work, but I now know to cut the rail that is currently in situ where I can join it to a new section of flex and let that contiguous section form the vertical curve you need.
Figure out how high the rail should be at 18" from the onset of the vertical curve and support it there with a clamp, on a temporary riser, a stack of books, whatever. Then back up and figure out how to firmly support the curve up to that point. Don’t force anything under the tracks or you’ll disrupt that nice natural curve that the flextrack is wanting to generate for you. You only want a snug fit, nothing that will lift or flatten the curve prematurely.
It would help to pour something under the tracks to act as a supporting subroadbed. If you are using foam ramp sections, probably just thin plastic and cardstock shims will do, and I have used leftover plastic ties where the space allows it.
I don’t fasten the track down close to the start of the grade. Then when I ballast the track, some will go under the ties and support the easement when it dries.
It’s a good idea to make a gradual transition. Start at 0.5% for a short section. Then 1% for a short section. Then 1.5%. Finally, 2%. The length of the sections depends upon available space (which normally is insufficient). However, make the transition sections as long as you can.
This is where cookie-cut plywood subgrade is worth its weight in platinum!
WS grade formers simply don’t provide for any transition. The cure is to move one foot onto the level and mark the spot. Do the same thing one foot from the bottom of the grade on the slope. Use a 2 foot level as a straightedge and build up a transition with drywall mud, which should form a nice smooth curve between those two marks. Once it cures, put a little vertical bend into your flex and secure it in place.
There are other methods, but I’ve done this and I know it works.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
A piece of cedar shingle acting as a shim will help a lot. just be sure to feather the thin edge into the plywood sub roadbed at the start of the grade. Match the other end to the thickness of your sub roadbed on the grade. Sand out any bumps where the shingle joins the end of the roadbed that is the grade.