I use code 83 for the mainline and for the turnouts on the mainline, passing sidings and at the yard throat. I am using code 70 track for the arrival/departure tracks and the classification tracks. The problem is the rail height difference between the code 83 turnouts and code 70 track. Suggestions, please. I have thought of placing the code 70 track on top of the code 83 rail joiners and then soldering the code 83 track to the code 70.
Use transition rail joiners. (I have the same suituation as you)
I make my own metal transition rail joiners.
Slide the two different size rails in a joiner. Then take a .010 shim and put it on the bottom of the joiner under the code 70 rail, then squeeze the whole joiner with shim in a set of duckbill pliers on the top and bottom. The joiner will deform and make a ‘step’ on the bottom leaving the top of the two rails even.
When I use the joiner, I solder it to both rails.
An alternative is to use some cardstock or similar shim material under the code 70 track. Taper the thickness down to zero a few inches away from the turnout - don’t start the taper within a couple of inches of the turnout to keep the rail joints level. What really matters is that the inside top corner of the rails are aligned in all 3 dimensions at the joint.
just my thoughts and experiences
Fred W
Elmer
Thanks for the information. Have a Happy New Year.[<:o)]
Have you ruled out the transition track that Walthers sells? These short lengths of track are available in two types: Code 100 down to 83 and Code 83 down to 70. Midpoint of the piece of track the two sizes of rails are cleverly combined into a seamless looking piece of rail. From the Walthers website:
Transition Track - Code 83 to Code 70
Walthers Part # 948-898, p. 238 Walthers 2011 HO Scale Reference
HO scale, $7.98, currently in stock at Walthers
This product is on-sale today for $6.98
Dave Nelson
Smash flat the rail joiner on the code 83 side and solder the code 70 to the top of it.