I am using WS foam roadbed for my layout and was wondering how I make the transition from the mainline height to the branch line, siding height. I know that with cork you can use a belt sander to smooth the transition but I am at a total loss to figure out how to belt sand foam.
You could try N-scale foam road bed, you might have to double it up side-by-side.
I just used woodland scenic foam and transitioned from the roadbed to the first riser. I used a 6" ruler to get the sloap right and the transition is seamless now that I the track laid.
On my previous layout I used WS foam, HO for the main and the N for sidings. For the transition I just cut up pieced of shirt cardboard to raise the N scale up to the HO height in a grandual transition. And believe it or not you CAN sand the WS roadbed to thin it down. ALl the way from HO to the table top, for a siding with no raised roadbed under it might be asking a bit much but you could always use pieces of cork sanded to make a ramp. Or transition HO WS to N scale WS and finally to the table top.
–Randy
I thank you all for the replies…I had never thought of using N scale roadbed (not thinking outside the box I guess). I also like the idea of transitioning using the cork roadbed.
This is a little bit different but deals with WS Inclines and Risers. I just recieved a set of 3/4’’ risers and the 3% inclines that go with them. Looking at them I realized how short (height) they are . So my questions are:
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If I use latex caulk and glue 1 riser on top of the other to make it 1.5 inches would it be stable enough to support trains (HO) running over them?
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I am assuming that if I put 2- 3% inclines on top of each other that will make the incline grade 6%. Is this correct.
I am trying to use the items that I ordered even though I should of ordered a larger size. Thanks in advance.
I think a little differently. I lower the cork into the foam. It takes seconds to do it this way. I use cork but I don’t see why foam couldn’t work the same way. Just cut a gently sloping trench in the foam and use caulk to hold your roadbed in. The caulk also acts as a filler for any errant gouges. If you are on plywood use a chisel to achieve the same thing. Good luck.[:)]
Brent[C):-)]
I just had to do this on an HCD N scale layout I am building. I used WS Foam Putty and troweled it from the cork to the foam. After letting it dry overnight I just sanded it a little and put down track. I also used a Foam Putty ramp from cork to the ground (pink foam) for spurs. It goes on smooth and works very nicely. Two ramps are visible in this photo,from the switch lower center then from the switch top right center back to the main line.
I use WS foam roadbed and have made several tranisitions from HO road bed to the table top. The first I used N roadbed between the HO and the table top. The flextrack is stiff enough to keep a constant grade for short lenhths with out any thing underneath, When I’m sure the track is where I want it I fill any gaps with ballast and stuff it under the ties.
I am now working on a yard (see picture). Call me lazy but this time I’m skipping using N roadbed at all and going straight from the HO bed to the layout top. I have tested the track in the picture running trains over it many times.
Bob