One fellow’s method to transport his EM-1 without having to disconnect the loco and tender. Scroll down the page a little.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,18857.30.html
Rich
Rich:
A couple of good ideas, there. However, that comment about having to use 80% of DC power to get the EM-1 going kind of disappoints me, being strictly DC (same reason I passed up getting an MTH AC-6 cab-forward).
Looks like yet another beautiful locomotive I’ll have to pass up, darn it!
Tom
Tom
Any model that is manufactured for DCC but will run on DC can be rewired to have the DC directly to the motor like any of our brass models. You would have to rewire the lighting also and provide a constant light source, but don’t pass on the model because of the out of the box operation.
It sounds like a great model for you if you can figure out why the B&O allowed it to be leased out to your railroad! Maybe a smaller Yellowstone since the M3’s were pulling the drawbars out of the box cars.
Merry Christmas
CZ
Tom:
I am strictly DC also, and don’t have any problems running my EM-1. I did notice to get the engine moving I had to turn the throttle up to slightly past the half-way point momentarily, but could back off from that mediately and have it start out at a crawl. Once moving, I didn’t turn the throttle above 50%, and at 50%, the engine was moving at a speed I use typically for a fast freight train. It may depend on what your DC power source is? I am using GML Enterprises throttles with memory.
Greg
That may be one persons experience. No idea yet. It may be only that one loco. This stuff is massed produced and not every item gets a thorough examination.
Some are showing the loco operating but not mentioning how much throttle they needed.
Although many will disagree, these locos are more for DCC than DC.
I still see many comments in different forums about the throttle difference on a DC layout as compared to a loco with no decoder. Many have unrealistic thoughts on how the stuff operates.
When the DCC idea came up years ago, the designers knew operating a decoder loco on a DC layout would not be the same as a loco with no decoder.
Many have no idea that the digital electronics on the PC board require at least 5 vdc to even begin operating. When on a DC layout, the DC track voltage does not go directly to the loco motor.
At 5 vdc, a non decoder loco will be moving fairly well.
Rich
CZ, Rich, Mr. B&O:
I always explain my ‘foreign’ power with the fact that they’re WWII “Loaners”, LOL! So I can run my Burlington, Great Northern and C&O lokies on my Rio Grande without stretching the truth TOO much. [:$] So I wouldn’t have much trouble integrating the smaller B&O Yellowstone with my M-3’s. And I always thought those EM-1’s were a very nifty ‘baby’ Yellowstone.
Actually, though I can’t run them with my strict DC locos, I’ve still got a couple of BLI’s that don’t seem to take up THAT much additional voltage to get them running with my Controlmaster 20. That puppy seems to have power to spare. In fact, I’ve been able to program my BLI cab-forward down to about 5 volts starting power. I started thinking about the 80% comment, and wondered what power pack the person was using.
And come to think of it, I’m sure that I could get someone at my LHS to re-route the wiring on the Bachmann to strict DC. And I’m sure it’s just me, but I’m not really a stickler for operating headlights. I’ve installed them in some of my brass lokies, the others I’ve just left alone.
Oboy, I’m talking myself into it, aren’t I, LOL?
Tom [:D]
You are not talking to yourself.
The model railroad community is huge now that we have the Internet.
It will be interesting to see what will have to be done to convert this loco to DC only and keep the lighting. You can be sure some will want to do that.
Rich
Tom,
The Bachmann EM-1 is easily converted back to pure DC operation.
The decoder and sound board interface is easily removed from the tender. The power pickup wires and motor leads are then available for simple connection. The headlight will require a 1000 ohm resistor on one fo its leads, and a diode if you want it to go off in reverse. The backup light LED, which is mounted on the tender floor, seperate from the circuit board you would be removing, will also require a reisator and a diode.
That simple.
I would also recommend removing the boiler shell and removing the noise suppression capacitors on the small board behind the backhead.
Bachmann understands those of us who still run DC, most of their locos are easily back converted removing the dual mode decoder.
This one is a little different than previous Bachmann locos because of thier different choice of sound boards, but still no big deal.
Sheldon
Tom
It sounds like you will be looking at the EM1 again. I believe you are talking yourself into a new EM1!
Merry Christmas
CZ