I travel on business a lot, and of course that means not working on the layout, etc. But I have a massive backlog of rolling stock kits to assemble - at the top of the list at the moment is a fleet (dozens) of Branchline Pullmans and coaches. These are great models and are sufficiently precision made that they require only minimal tools (knife, tweezers file, pin vise, sprue cutter, cement applicator, optivision). It would seem that as long as I can protect the model as it progresses but travels, these are great things to take on trips. After doing a few, it now takes me about 6 hours to do all but the diaphragms and anti-rattle rods, so I could easily do two of them on a week-long trip, perhaps even three if I do some of the parts (trucks and underbody details in particular) in batches.
Is it sufficient to just put four pieces of foam in the original box, sized so that it doesn’t move around? There’s a lot of pretty delicate underbody detail on these so I would think that the foam absolutely has to stay away from those areas. The boxes would have to go in checked luggage, so there definitely is the potential for some rugged handling of the luggage in which the box would be riding.
Since I have so many to do, I guess I could go to the extent of making a custom box to hold (say) two cars, but is that necessary?
When shipping models to others, I’ve found the best way to prevent damage is to prevent it from moving within the box and to limit its contact within the box. If I can’t find a suitably-sized box, I make one, using corrugated cardboard cut from a carton - readily available at any supermarket. You can make the box and lid each from a single piece, cutting with a utility knife to provide the tabs required for assembly, or make a one-piece box with a flip-open lid. Assemble either using a hot glue gun.
To minimise contact between the model and box, the box needs to be longer, wider, and deeper than the model for which it’s built - I prefer 2" longer and wider, and at least 1" deeper than the model when it’s laying on its side. To limit movement within the box and, at the same time, contact with it, I use medium or high density foam, available at most fabric stores. Use a utility knife to cut four blocks the same height as the interior of the box, and about one inch greater in length and width than the free space available at each corner when the model is lying on its side in the centre of the box. From the corner of each block, and centred height-wise where it would contact the model, remove material to a depth of about 1/2" or 3/4", making the opening’s height slightly less than that of the model laying on its side. This is usually a cut-and-fit operation.
Here’s a quick sketch of such a block. Dimension “A” should be somewhat less than the width of the car (which will lay on its side in the box), while dimensions “B” and “C” should be such that the foam is somewhat compressed, both end-to-end and side-to-side, when all four blocks are installed on the model and then placed in the box.
By first placing the fitted foam blocks over the corners of the model, then placing it
I used to travel some and took model kits with me, plus the tools etc. I NEVER checked them. I always carried them on. You can replace underware & skivies, but you will never get back the cost of your models and tools if they got lost.
I just don’t think about airlines as being the most responsible business or people. Make a custom carry-on box if you have to.
Now having said that, my traveling was done before all the new rules and security checks etc., so I don’t really know what is taboo to carry on now.
Well, I can tell you for certain that the knives are off limits. At some point any “tool” was verboten, too. I had them confiscate several allen wrenches - 1/8" ones. You know, the sort that are about an inch and a half long? (Imagine the terror I could create with those. Back off! I have a weapon somewhat less dangerous than my nail clipper!!! I want a billion dollars in small bills right now!!! More likely everyone would die laughing.) My tweezers have a mildly sharp tip so they may be viewed as weapons too. Basically I have to check the tools no matter what. But I’m not worried about them. We’re talking about, what? $50 for a #1 knife, a pin vise, tweezers, cement applicator and a sprue cutter? Not exactly large, either. That’s a lot less than a toothbrush and razor.
Anyway, I fly out of a non-hub airport, so I have to fly a regional jets twice on almost every trip. On regional jets I ALWAYS have to check luggage, whether that’s gate checked or regular checked. If I can’t get it into more or less a briefcase, it’s out of my hands for at least one leg of the trip.
And besides, the Branchline kits we’re talking about here are running about $12.99 these days. Even at list price they’re $40 each, and I’m only talking about moving two or three at a time. Heck, three of them plus the tools is less than the cost of a sport coat, or a couple of days worth of dress shirts. The time I invest in building them is a lot more valuable.
I’ve flown at least 650 flights in the past eight years, and I have never lost anything permanently in checked luggage. (I have lost stuff at TSA checkpoints, more than once.) So I regard the chance of losing something as tolerable, especially stuff like what we’re discussing here. At the end of the day I have to fly regional jets, so I can either risk taking the models safely, or not.
So far I don’t really know if I should be building a box or not. I’m flying again next week. I’ll see how this thread pans out for a couple of days.
About 5 years ago now, MR published the first of two feature articles about rock legend and model railroader Rod Stewart. In that first article, he talked about how he transported his models and tools from place to place.
IIRC, he had a couple of large Pelican cases (hard sided cases with foam inserts) in which he kept his thing s and moved it back and forth. This would probably cost you a fair bit in luggage charges these days, but it might be worth it to you.
Both Dan and I have travelled with Pelican cases and as long as the trains are packed securely you should have no problem. You need to find some EPS (styrofoam) and cut it to fit your cars. If you can use foam from old RTR cars and use the original cardboard boxes as well that adds protection.
The key - which I learned when I took samples on a cross-Canada tour last year - is to have soft EPDM foam between the ends of the cars and the inside ends of the stryofoam. When the case is dropped, the shock is transmitted through hard surfaces. Having a buffer between the cars and the styrofoam will solve this. We’re actually dealing with this problem on some of our models that shipped last week - if the box is dropped on one corner the locomotives are getting damaged through the transferred shock.
I don’t recommend just using the soft foam. I tried this when transporting models from the UK back in 2004 and the models got seriously damaged. Parts got caught in the foam and broke off, and in some cases the boxes were dropped so violently that the models pushed through the foam and hit the sides of the case. All my RDCs lost their pilots and some even lost their end doors.
I waited more than three weeks before checking them and FedEx wouldn’t process the claim. So check your models in the airport and bring a claim right there and then if they damaged your stuff.
You’re right, Jason, the soft foam is too compressible. However, medium- or high-density upholstery foam will absorb shocks quite well. As you note, the car or locomotive should be packaged or at least wrapped in plastic film to prevent details from getting caught in the foam - the same as brass models are wrapped before placing them in their fitted-foam packing. Of course, there’s always a baggage handler, shipping clerk, or mailman somewhere who can out-do even the best packing job. [(-D]
Massive backlog (dozens)??? How long do you plan to live, sounds like you may be working till you are 95. Thank goodness for foam, a lifesaver in many ways.
