I have started a layout for my son and myself. We are using Bachmann e-z-track. It seems that the switches don’t work all the time. Most of the time, the engine or some cars will jump tract at these points, even when going real slow. Is there any magic trick for adjusting these pieces? I’ve tried to take it apart and retighten everything. I have (4) switches and all of them do this. They work fine when the traffic goes straight through or when it comes back onto the main line. I’ve tried all of my different loco’s with no change. Any advice would be gratly appreciated. Thanks.
What do you have the track resting on? Is it on plywood, or the floor? It sounds like the track is not level and this is causing derailments at the turnouts (switches). Check to make sure everything is level and connected properly.
I guess that this could make a difference, carpet. Like I said, we are new and jsut getting started. I’m not having a problem where the other sections of tack link together, just right at the switch, so I didn’t give it a whole lot of thought that this could be it. Thanks, I’ll put a sheet aof plywood down and see if that helps.
Ive heard about EZ track switches not being the greatest, but all four?! Have you checked the switch points, perhaps you have it thrown the wrong way. Run a train through and see if it derails. If it does, throw the switch and try again. Your problem might be as simple as switches thrown the wrong way.
when it derails, it is switching to the branch and the loco (generally) goes right down the middle, sometime the front wheels will make it and the back wheels don’t. Thats normally about the time I kill the power and bring everything back to the rerailer and start over.
Are your turn-outs (switches) AND the wheels on your locomotives and rolling stock in guage (ie: the proper distance apart) ?
Are the wheels on your locomotives and rolling stock in proper alignment, front to back ?
Are the points (the moving parts of the switch) falling away from the stock rails (the stationary parts) ?
Is the frog the same height as the surrounding rails ?
Is the code (height) of rail you’re using too low for the wheel flanges of your locomotives and rolling stock ?
If you answered “No” to any of the above questions, you’ve probably found the problem. These are common causes for derailments at turn-outs (switches).
Possible solutions…
Out of guage wheels and/or track can cause derailments not just in a turn-out; but also on curves (particularly tight ones). It can take some fiddling and fussing; but re-guaging wheels is not overly difficult with the proper tools.
Mis-aligned wheels (front to back) can cause the wheels to follow the wrong track through a turn-out, particularly if the points are not tight against the stock rails.
Falling points will force wheels to follow the wrong track through a turn-out. The leading truck (set of wheels) might go one way, and following trucks go another. Sometimes the vibrations of the train rolling on the track is enough to cause the points to fall, particularly if you are using lesser quality turn-outs or turn-out machines.
If the frog is too tall, it may lift the wheels off the tracks briefly. Then, once they have passed the frog, they fall off the track and cause a derailment. You may have to file down the top of the frog to make it the same height as the surrounding rails; or you may have to file the grooves along the sides of the frog to deepen them and make more room for the wheel flanges.
If your wheel flanges are too large for the code (size/heigh
Thanks for the thoughts.
Are the wheels and rails in gauge, I have no idea. How do I check/fix. I have heard of this being a problem, but nothing is more than a month old. I would think that it shoudlstill be in gauge and/or alignment. As far as all of the other items, I’m going to look at everything a little closer and try to see exactly where it derails at. Like I said before, I would assume everything should be good since its brand new and I haven’t let my son play with it yet. Thanks again.
You need to get an NMRA Track Guage. You can get one at Micro-Mark.com for about $14 US (shop around, you might find it cheaper elsewhere). This will help you determine not only if the wheels are in guage; but also your tracks. It also checks for structure clearance, coupler height, etc. Be sure you get the guage appropriate for the scale you’re using.
Just because your equipment is only a month old doesn’t mean it isn’t out of guage or mis-aligned. Sometimes they come that way from the factory (partly due to shipping and handling).
You can make your own gauge out of foam. Just press the flanges into the foam and then test the indentations with other axles. If you find one that is a bit off, that could make the difference.
Make and indentation with three different axles. That way, you don’t run as high a risk of making your “gauge” out of the one axle that happens to be faulty and think that all the others are out of gauge.
The cheaper commercial switches, of which I have several, invariably need to have the points tuned. That, as a minimum, means extensive filing of the points to get them sharp. Place a small piece of bamboo bar-b-que skewer behind the point, between it and the stock rail. Then, using a jeweller’s file, begin long strokes with medium pressure. Make sure that the skewer supports the file all along its length so that you don’t bend the sharp tip with your filing. Check its postion every third or fourth stroke.
If the points rock sideways at their pivot, the points won’t lie flat against the stock rail, and the flanges will pick the points for the same reason that they pick the points if they are not sharp enough. You will have to make a solder “shoe” for them to act as a wide bearing. It worked for me…just be careful not to melt the tie below.
Take a car or locmotive that derails and move it slowly through the switch, pushing it by hand. Watch the wheels and see where thet start to leave the tracks.
There may be a place where the pieces of rail don’t line up, probably at the end of the points (the moving bits.) Or the track at the frog may not be set right allowing the wheel to go down the wrong line. This is trickier to adjust. At this point, you may have a problem with wheels too wide. This happens, and it’s tricky to fix. You may need to look up Back to Back measurements on the NMRA site, and get a set of calipers for measuring. and a small vise for regauging the wheels.
The best thing you can do with the E-Z Track is toss it in the trash and then get yourself a 4’x8’ piece of plywood and buy some QUALITY Atlas track! Start small and let your layout grow. Remember the old saying, “You get what you pay for.”
When it’s cheap, that’s exactly what it is, CHEAP JUNK!!!
Good luck,
gtr
E-Z track turnouts are of poor quality and usually require some filing of the points, which improves the derailing issue a little.
Go to your LHS and compare them to turnouts from other brands. You’ll see the difference immediately and you’ll understand why your engines are derailing.
E-Z track is easy to work with, but you will quickly become frustrated over the turnout issue.
I know – I’ve been there.
Do yourself a favor and look at other brands before you spend too much money on E-Z track.
You said everything is only a few months old, so the the wheels should not be out of guage. Wheel guage seldom changes on its own. Out-of guage wheels can come that way from the factory. You mention you have E-Z Track switches, but did not mention what brand of trains you have. Many Train sets come with non-NMRA wheel profiles, meaning that the flanges on the wheels come to a very sharp edge (as opposed to the blunt profile of the NMRA RP25 profiles. These sharp edges have a tendency to pick at any irregularity in the track, ride up over it, and derail. Also, because these flanges are so thin, they tend to break easily and cause even more problems. Converting the cars and locomotives to the NMRA style wheel profiles will make a tremendous improvement.
When the switch is turned to go the branch line you need to make sure the outside sliding rail goes all the way over and makes good contact. I have one new Atlas switch I just got where this wasn’t happening. This could cause the train to try to go between the main line and the branch. Pushing a car by hand to test where it’s jumping off is a good idea and should allow you to pin point the problem area
I’d like to offer a differnt tack on this. You haven’t mentioned the brand of engine or type you are trying to run. First of all I strongly advise against carpet running becasue you will pick up carpet fibers that will wrap around the axles and bind things up eventually. here are the question I would like to have answered to help you:
1 Make and type of loco (ie: Lifelike Sd7 or Atheran f7 or Bachman gp38)
2. A definition of the trackwork leading into the turnout ( are you coming off a curve into the turnout and does the turnout curve in the same direction as the curve)
3. Radius of the curve into the turnout and the size of the turnout (#4,6,8) or in layman terms is it a tight radius or a broad one.
4. What are you pulling and have you tried the engine alone?
5. Have you tried turning the engine end for end?
6. Turn the engine upside down and make sure both trucks swivel freely side to side and the same amount.
7. Look at the switch points very carefully and determine if there is a bump where they meet the stock rail. File a bevel on the upper edge if there is to smooth the transiition.
8. Run the engine slowly through a turnout to determine where exactly it is derailing. is it the same on all four?
If the points are not making full contact with the outside. How do you this correction…
I have like problem and it looks like the points are not making contact. The track is altas code 83, Not a fast track .