I just finished my first Fast Tracks Turnout (in just under 3 hours). It looks good and rolls perfect, yet when I test continuity across the two rails I get current.
I cut the frog with the jeweler’s saw.
All the ties are perfectly cut–I even went over them with a dremmel to be sure.
It seems to me that should also cut the points. The current can run up one point and over to the other crossing where the frog is soldered. But that cut is not shown on the directions.
Any clues or advise?
PS. I don’t need any other ties because the whole turnout is in the street.
You have to make more cuts. It appears to me that you have to cut the point rails on the point side of the frog. The power is going up one point rail to the frog, and returning to the other point rail. Make two cuts like you have made on the other side of the frog.
From what I can see, the others are correct. You have made the two required gaps on the frog rails, but you must also cut a pair of gaps on the opposite side of the frog on the closure rails. The closure rails have elbows where they get closest together. Toward the points you have two ties. Make the gaps between 'em.
Since I can’t point, let’s just call the ties numbers 1 to 9 from the point end to the frog end. Ties 4 and 5 should only have gaps between the point rails, it looks like you’ve also gapped between the point rails and the stock rails. By doing that you’ve lost any reliable connection of the points to power. The gap in the point rails that you missed is between ties five and six. Then tie 6 needs gaps only between stock rails and points, not between the points (I can’t tell if you tried to gap there, or not). Ties 7 and 8 are gapped just like 6, then 9 has all three gaps, which I think you got right.
Chip I just started using the Fast Tracks Jigs myself and had a hard time soldering my rail to the ties. I started cleaning the bottom of every piece of rail with fine emery paper and then a rag with alcohol on it. I could not believe the amount of grease that was left from the extruding process to make the rail, it is so much easier to make small solder joints. My biggest problem is keeping the closure rails in gauge, seems like mine are to tight, I think I need to take more time when bending the rail.
I use acid flux and I am washing the turnout in a ultrasonic cleaner before I glue the wooden ties on and painting. I have not had any problem with the fiberglass ties coming apart so far. I thought this might be a help to you. Jim
I found that template after I posted the question. They kept refereing to it, but I couldn’t find it until after I tried to close thier program. I actually used my multi-meter to figure that it had to be cut.
I’ll try it and see. I didn’t have a problem with the soldering other than it took a while to figure that putting the pit right between the rail and tie worked best. I know the photo looks like there is lots of solder, but there really isn’t.
Chip- Counting down from the top of your picture, you need to make the cut between the fourth and fifth ties. That will correctly isolate the frog. Glad to see your finally using the Fast-Tracks stuff!
LAst night when I posted, I tried to edit my post to add a bit more, but the system threw up on me. Fortunately, I saved what I wrote, so here is the rest…
Make sure you’ve got enough flangeway clearance between the stock rail and the points. I’ve found that this distance has to be greater than it ‘feels’ like it should be. If there isn’t enough clearance, you end up riding on both point rails, which get closer together, and then you end up on the ground. Theother place I’ve had trouble is having the guard rails too close to the stock rails. I think that is an N scale unique problem, but make sure the guard rails are sitting on the ties, and not ever so slightly on the stock rails. When you hold it up to the light, it is nice to see the tiniest bit of light coming through there. Then you know you are ok.
That’s why there is a pair of ties on either side of the frog, to hold everything in alignment after you cut the gaps.
The point rails are fed by the PCB they are soldered to. Just make sure there is a gap in the copper between the two rails so they don’t short.
You might want to go to the website and watch the videos again, just to reinforce the process. If you ever get the chance to watch Tim Warris live, when he builds a turnout right in front of your eyes, take it. It’s worth it.
I saw him demonstrate the process last week, and even with answering questions he still did it in 40 minutes. Mind you, there was a bit of the martha stewart magic with some parts prepared in advance. But he did all the filing.
He did mention that you should wash your hands before and after the process. The reasons are to reduce the transfer of skin oils to the metal, hindering soldering, and the other reason is, your hands will be dirty when finished.
That’s a pretty nice looking turnout. If you folks don’t mind, could someone please describe how the rails are formed into the correct curves and how the points are made and attached?
I usually give them a good looking over under a 10x jewlers loupe.
No because only one side of the points should be touching one rail or the other. Both point rails will normally be one polarity or the other depending on which way the turnout is thrown. But I am guessing it is the tie under the point rails. That one should not have the gap in the center of the tie that I see, but two gaps. The gaps should be right up next to the outside rails so that neither of the point rails can conduct across it.
Also look for a bit of solder that might have run down the side of a tie bridging the front and back of the PC board.
Jim, Chip is absolutely right; watching that video and then building your first such turnout will be one of the most rewarding 3 hours of your life if you have never built a turnout, and if you intend to stay firmly in the hobby for another decade or so…time very well spent.
You don’t have to cut anymore gaps in the rails, you just need to decide how you want to wire it.
Method 1 is what I think everybody has told you so far. You cut gaps in all the rails leading to the frog and gap the foil on the PC board ties and throwbars down the center of the track from the frog past the points and then down the center of the tracks from the end of the switch along the frog. When you do that you have electrically isolated the frog from the rest of the switch and you will need to attach some sort of electrical switch that reverses the polarity of the frog depending on which way it is thrown.
Method 2 has only gaps in the rails leading to the frog opposite the points. the points and the frog are made of the same rails with no gaps. You then have to gap the PC board between the two outer rails and all the “inside” rails, including the throwbar. With this method the points become the switch to change the polarity of the frog. When the points are pushed up against the stock rail they make electrical connection and power the frog properly.
Method 1 requires more work, in that you have to provide a switch, may have to build a linkage to throw it and have to wire it. Method 2 is less reliable because it relies on a very poor connection to power the frog and metal wheels may short out between the points and the opposite stock rail.
In most cases you don’t need to power the from on these, as the dead section is fairly short. Chip might need to power it, as he is modelling turn of the last century, or a little before.
The problem with method 2 (and from looking at Chips picture, I think he already has the gaps in the PC ties cut) is keeping the throwbar and the ties adjacent to the throwbar from being in contact with both of the point rails, and if you succeed in that you don’t have a reliable connection between the point rail
Okay, let’s assume I use Method one (partly because I don’t understand method 2-I can’t get around the direct short it seems to cause.)
I knew going into this that I would have to power the frog. My wheelbase is just too short. However, I am also concerned with the points. A problem that my old club had was that the points would loose the ability to pick up current from the rails.
That makes 5 leads off the turnout–unless I rely on the joiners.
Method 2 is pretty simple. Where the three ties are really close together (on the points side of the frog), you need to have three gaps cut into them. One in between the frog section and each of the stock rails, and one in between each of the point rails. I’m pretty sure that’s how Tim does it in the video, though I haven’t watched the video for a while.
