My layout was 4x8 but still 4x8 now that I added an extension 4x9 and 4x1. I have inside and outside lines. I have one s-curved on the inside and out-side lines.I have 4 turn-out switches that I can noy reach by hand. So ,my question is if I go to put a motor on my turn-out switches.What is the best way to do this with motors or what. I have peco insulfrog turn-out switches.My layout is dc and dcc.I have a double pole doubkle throw toggle switch. Please help me with aqny help that you can .Thankl you very ace24
First, a littlle nomenclature:
TURNOUT (locating engineer nomenclature, used by model railroaders to differentiate them from those toggle, slide and rotary thingies that direct electricity) applies to the whole assembly purchased as a unit from Peco (through various middlefolk.)
SWITCH (operating folks nomenclature) is, strictly speaking, the moving parts - points and throw bar.
For clarity, I’m going to fall back on British practice and use the term POINTS.
As you already know, Peco has a retaining spring incorporated in their point assembly. That makes the Peco twin-coil machine the best choice for powering Peco points. The down side is that the machine mounts to the underside of the turnout (simply snaps on) so it requires a ‘pit’ in the roadbed and subgrade big enough to fit. If your trackwork is already in place, you’ll have to remove the turnout to dig the necessary hole. Like all twin coils, Peco machines require a brief shot of power to throw the points, but can’t take continuous power. Pushbuttons or a normally-off SPDT toggle switch would be the best bet.
If you use any other kind of machine, you will either have to remove the Peco retaining spring or find something that can overpower it. I’m confident that my ancient KTM twin-coils could do so, but they aren’t always available on E-Bay or other auction sites.
It is also possible to use a remote manual throw mechanism - a simple subterranean push-pull rod (wood or metal) with a vertical link to the throw bar of your Peco points. A 3/8 inch dowel with a knob on the operator’s end and a vertical wire attached to the other would do it. A couple of appropriately-sized screw eyes into the under-table woodwork can support it.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with hand-laid specialwork)
Peco has the motors for those. You will have to take them out and do some surgery to the right of way to fit them. Or you can equip them with some manual throws such as these. http://www.humpyard.com/
Pete
It seems that you asked basically this same question a short while ago.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/215186.aspx
To help others help you, it might be useful to explain what you didn’t understand about those answers rather than have good folks repeat themselves.
I hope that you have access to all portions of your layout. Can you Post a digital photo or diagram of your layout. Do you know how to Post images on Trains.com Forums? We will be glad to help. One trick that I used for an inaccessible area was to make a pull-out shallow kitchen drawer. as seen in the saw mill complex photo below. I have 110 turnouts on my layout, with electric motor operation for 96 of them, divided between 5 Power Districts. I use old transformers connected to groups of them,(separately). My around the room 24’x24’ HO layout,with three peninsulas,has an undulating top edge, with a skirt. Bob Hahn 