I have a 5 x9 oval layout in HO scale with Lifelike snap-track. I am in the process of expanding it approx. 3 times its size, I need turnouts. On one end of my track are 3 peces of 18’’ radius curves then a section of 9’’ streight then 3 more pieces of 18’’ radius curves. I am thinking I will replace the Lifelike track with Atlas sectional & flex track. My question is this…I wan’t to come off the streight section in the middle of the curve with aturn-out, one side will go on streight to the next part of the layout while the cerved side of the turnout will continue on around the existing track, what kind & size of a turnout do I need? I hope this is not to confusing… Thanks Mike[:D]
I know you don’t want to hear this, but now is the time to replace all the Life-Like track. The involved you get with your layout, the harder it will be to replace.
Not too confusing Mike as I did a similar thing, see below in the bottom right of the pic.
The turnout used was a #4 Atlas snap switch, this is supplied with an additional piece of track which extends the diverging track to the same dimensions as a section of 18" radius curved track, worked well for me.
Hope this helps
Karl.
An Atlas snap-track turnout comes with an additional 3-inch curve section. If you add it to the end of the curved part of the turnout, you will have the equivalent of an 9-inch curved length of 18-inch radius track. BUT… there is still a short straight section of the turnout to deal with before the curve starts, so you can’t just drop this into your curve in place of the 9-inch curve. You will need to also replace the 9-inch straight section with a section about 7 1/2 or 8 inches long.
Another alternative is a dual-curve turnout. Peco makes these, and I think Shinohara does also. On the Peco, one of the curves is close to 18-inch radius (17 1/4, I think) while the other is more like 22. This gives you a bit more flexibility in placing your turnout. In this case, you probably want to replace all of your 18-inch curved sections with flex-track to account for the small differences in radius.
As long as you’re re-doing the trackwork, you might want to replace all the sectional tracks with flex-track anyway. In the long run, you’ll have smoother running, more reliable track that way.
Thanks, I have thought of using flex track all the way but I seem to have a problem getting the curves to come out even. They always seem not to have a smoothe curve. Can Tou help me with that? Thanks to everyone in this forum, you guys have been a hudge help. Mike
Simple but stupid method I use for smooth curves with flex track, I have a wooden yard stick with holes drilled at every inch mark. I stick a pin in one hole and use the yard stick like a giant compass, put a pencil in a hole and draw the curve on my layout. I then lay the track along the line I drew.[:)]
Actually, your curve is smooth, it just isn’t the way you visualized it when you planned it, or it doesn’t seem as consistent as your snap curved track…right? HOwever, that is precisely the look you want in railroad curves…believe it or not. Let your flextrack curve as it will; all you have to do is to get the ends to meet the other ends so that you can close your loop eventually with curves that will accommodate your locos and longest rolling stock.
Put another way, the snap track is fixed, and they make a consistent radius for you in every piece. Great for planning and plunking, but not great for variation, adjustment as you go, or for getting the odd section to fit. With the flextrack, you bend as you need to from end-to-end, and let the track figure out its own curve. It’s a beautiful and proper curve, but only if you have not demanded too tight a radius of it.
As I’m a newbie also, I’d defer to selector’s comments. I plan on doing a 6’ X 12" with double ovals(main and branch). So, I want the curves to be smooth. Having read some of the MR books and reading multiple threads, what I plan on doing is to do flex-track, mapping out the curves with the “compass” technique that GAPPLEG describes, but then I’m also going to use radius guages (made by Ribbonrail, ? others) to further insure the consistency of the curves–as I recall, they come in 15-48 inche diameter guages.
Jim
You want an Atlas snap switch. Note that this is NOT the same as Atlas #4. The Atlas snap switch comes with a short piece of 18" radius track. When you add this to the curved leg you have the same length curve as an 18" piece of Atlas snap track. This should be the same length as Life Like. Take out one piece of curve track and put the snap switch in its place. The curved leg of the switch will replace your curved piece of track. Because of the switch lead, you will need to replace your straight section of track. Your options are to find the right combination of short track sections to fit, cut it to fit, or cut a section of flex track to fit.
While opinion differs, what works best for me, is to use flex track that flexes back and forth easily. That way I can get a nice smooth curve.
Enjoy
Paul