In building a new layout I am wondering if it is ok to use insulated and power-routed turn-outs together on the same layout. Also could I insulate a power-routed turn-out to make it DCC friendly? I currently have some Peco electro-frog turn-outs which I don’t know if I should use.
carmancp30
Wack wack wack. yes you can to insulate the power routing ones paint them woth nail polish or normal paint.
All you need to do is use insulated rail joiners on both inner rails that diverge from the frog and it doesn’t matter if they are power routing, insulfrog, or electrofrog.
Are your EF Pecos code 75 or 83? If so, there is a good way to increase their reliability, while insuring they are “DCC friendly” (which simply means they won’t cause shorts with metal wheels on locos or cars with all-metal trucks). They will work OK as supplied, but Peco makes provision for two mods that improve them, provided you have SPDT contacts available on the switch machine or the actual switch controlling it.
note the two jumpers under the insulating gaps in the closure rails. Cutting these insulates the frog and attached inner rails from the closure rails and them from each other. So now the frog must be switched by external contacts. Peco provides a frog wire for this purpose on the 75’s; not sure about the 83’s, but one is easily added.
note the two gaps in the plastic about an inch from the gaps toward the points. Putting jumpers between the stock rails and closure rails here gives you a second source for point rail power in addition to the point rails contacting the inside of the stock rails, making it unnecessary to periodically clean this area.
The other important change is that now the open point rails lying next to the stock rails no longer have the opposite polarity. The construction of the frog on the code 75 and 83 Pecos is such that there is no possibility of a short there. Metal wheels cease to be a problem even if they are non-standard or out of gauge. I have 35 installed code 75 EF Pecos and use metal wheels on all cars. I also can use either DC or DCC power. My engines go from short brass to Trix BB’s and such, and I never experience a short or loss of power in a switch. No paint or tape needed.
As noted , if power routing doesn’t suit your track plan, add two insulators on the inner rails; this has nothing to do with the above mods.
Peco 100’s are an older
Yes but you need to understand some technical details for some situations. Insulateds work everywhere. I have a mix of DCC friendly, converted and a few power routing.
Yes. there are several ways, some more permanent (and more difficult) than others.
Check out this site for more than you ever wanted to know: http://www.trains.com/TRC/CS/forums/1086904/ShowPost.aspx
Good luck
Karl