Turnout fastening to styrene and foam

The ties on my HO Walthers/Shinohara code 83 turnouts are .020 thinner than my Atlas flex track. I have cut sheet styrene to fit under all of them. I didn’t originally plan to glue them down but have since changed my mind. I was thinking of first gluing the styrene shim to the turnout and then glue this assemply in place on the 2" foam.

Question is, what glue to use on each? I normally glue the flextrack with latex caulk and weight it down overnight. No cork here. It is a yard ladder.

I appreciate any thoughts and ideas,

The best type of cement will depend on the type of material used for the ties. Atlas ties are made of styrene, and can be cemented to styrene with lacquer thinner or regular styrene cement. The Walthers/Shinohara ties also appear to be made of a similar material (I just tested one with some lacquer thinner). [swg] Micro Engineering ties seem to be made from a type of plastic which is impervious to lacquer thinner, though, so I’d suggest either ca or contact cement. Use a piece of fairly coarse sandpaper to make a pass or two over the mating surfaces of both the ties and the styrene. For using contact cement on styrene, an application of lacquer thinner is a good prep, and will help the contact cement to adhere.

For attaching the styrene to the foam, you might try the latex caulk, or a construction adhesive that’s safe for use on foam. In either case, rough-up the surface of the styrene fiirst.

Wayne

Why not use the same stuff you use for cork roadbed? It works on cork to foam, and it works on track to cork, so it ought to work on styrene to foam, and track to styrene, right?

Rotor

I used Ambroid Pro Weld for cementing styrene shims to my Walthers crossing. Then I will use Latex caulk to glue the assembly to the foam like I do for my other track and turnouts.

I say it all depends on whether you want to be able to pull 'em up and re-use later. Any kind of caulk, liquid nails (and I’d bet anything with the word “weld” in its name) will be a bear to remove if not impossible – the voice of experience.

It’s one of the reasons I’ve gone back to plywood… and good ol brads to hold things down. I’m one of those guys who loves to pull it up and do it better next time.

So far I have used Cedar Tan (color) latex caulk. It hold the track very well. I have also had occasion to remove both the track and the WS roadbed from my layout in several places. I use one of those cheap long blade snap off knives (the small ones) to cut the track away from the foam. Then I turn the track up-side-down and scrape the bottom with a putty knife by dragging it along the ties with a little pressure. Next I use a full size wire brush to remove the remaining caulk from between the ties. The caulk when dry just crumbles off the plastic.

I am starting to use the clear latex caulk in some places. This seems to stay more rubbery and pliable, so I don’t know how easy it will be to remove.