I’m having a problem with the lead trucks on my Class A 2-6-6-4 (shown below) jumping or rather derailing on turnouts. It’s like they’re just floating and don’t have enough weight to keep them on track when going through the turnouts. It’s a BLI model, a great one, but… is there any way that I can fix this? I’ve checked and checked the turnouts but don’t see anything wrong there. Maybe I’m not seeing what the problem is.
Jarrell
Do they float all over the track or in just one turnout?
Also what brand of turnout are you using.? Be sure your switch points are snug against the stockrails,some comercial turnouts need to have their points filed down.
If everything seems copicetic in that regard you might try a small amount of weight on your lead truck to help it through the turnout…
Jarrell,
Check to see that there is enough downward tension on the lead trucks. If there is little or no downward tension then they will derail fairly easily. You can usually adjust the tension by backing out the center screw.
Tom
You might want to try getting a small package of moldable lead putty and using a bit of it to add some weight to the truck. This has helped me with some other steamers.
I’m using Atlas turnouts, #4s… and the trucks leave the track on the straight a way (but over the turnout), not turning into the spur. I’ll check the screw and see if that helps and I’ll also look into some weights for it.
Thanks,
Jarrell
Run the loco as slow as you can through the turnout and look at the point that where it starts to rise. Then look for anything that might cause it to happen. It can be a force or irregularity on any of the wheels, not just the front truck. It could be riding up on the frog or a joint or even a piece of solder.
Jarrell, I know some trucks have preload springs on them to pu***hem down on the track to simulate weight. Look to see if it does, and that it’s connected properly. If it has one, maybe you can give it a slight stretch to help it out.
Might pay to check the track gauge and wheel gauge with an NMRA gauge as well. May not be a loco problem. Ken
Derailing on the ‘straight’ side of a turnout is unusual.
Double check to see if pilot trucks are climbing the rail’s BEFORE coming to the turnout.
- use NMRA guage to check spacing of point rails
- check wheel spacing with NMRA guage
- add some small weight to pilot truck
Change turnout to a #6 or longer.
#4 turnout’s are too sharp for even med. large steam engine’s.
Your 2-6-6-4 is a large steam engine.
The higher the price of you engine, the more particular it will be regarding curves . My last engine was a $1600 brass 2-6-6-4 and it wouldn’t take a #6. A #8 solved the problem.
ANSWER: If you are going to run bigger engines, enlarge your curve’s - or fire your puchasing agent. That’ what the railroad’s had to do - or stick with smaller engine’s.
Alas, I’m seriously considering getting out of the steam business altogether. They seem to be a bit to picky for an amature like me. Besides, I’d sure like to have a Dcc, sound SD-70mac.
I appreciate the tips, guys.
Jarrell
Jarrell, my BLI Hudson is manufacturer rated for 18" curves, but I am bu**ered if I could get it to go around them. I tried and tried, slow, fast, reverse, forward. As soon as I switched to 22", presto-chango, the miracle happened.
How deep is the flangeway in your frogs? Is the frog “point” (the “V”) getting picked by the front truck wheels? As Mouse says, turn up the lights (you’re a photog!) so that your eyes can get a really good look, and watch what happens at 6-10 scale mph. I’ll bet dollars to donuts that your turnout is too tight. Move up to longer ones.
Jarrell,
I made the move away from steam to diesel A) because I really like a lot of the deisels available in my favourite road (CN), and B) because my 4-6-2 kept jumping the turnout as well. My turnout is also a Atlas #4. for me it was and still is my tender lead axle the jumps at the frog. Oddly, nothing else has any problem with it, so likely a weight or gauge problem with the wheels on that loco.
Trevor[:)]
Your guards or guides may be incorrect. A friend had the same problem and I added a piece of tape to the inside of the guide or guard what ever it is called. The plastic part that holds the inside of the flange opposit the frog. When this was done it solved the problem as it pulled the wheel away from the frog. The way to find the problem is move slowly through the switch and watch carefully. many times. I have found that sometimes the derailment happens before the switch and the switch magnifies it.
Jarrell,
Hey, don’t be hasty and give up on steam too quickly. Your 2-6-6-4 is a bit big to go through a #4 turnout. I have a smaller 2-8-2 Mike that goes through an Atlas manual “snap” track turnout (steeper than a #4) with no problems. True, diesels tend to have less mechanical trouble than steamers but diesels still aren’t as visually appealing to watch as a classy steamer.
Hang in there Jarrell, don’t give up yet. Don’s (and other’s) suggestion is a valid one. See if you can put down a bigger turnout and your “issues” with your 2-6-6-4 may just disappear. [:)]
Tom
Jarrell,
Scrap the turnout and try another turnout before you go messing with the truck tension. Is this loco jumping every turnout or just this one? BLI products are very high quality. Presume that the weaker link (the switch) is the problem and work out from there. Get a high quality no.6 and see what the loco does. I run steam exclusively and have almost no derailments. While steam is more finicky, It is of course soooo worth it. Don’t giive up on this. it can work. Look at what others as well as myself are saying…fix or get rid of the turnout and see what happens then.
Guy.
Ok, I’m going to first try a #6 turnout and see what happens. God, what if it fixes it… all those #4’s to replace… whew! Oh well, it would be worth it Have to wait til I can get into town to the LHS though and hope they’ve got some. Man… with the price of gas now I don’t just jump into the car and drive 26 miles, round trip, anymore.
Thanks for the suggestions!
Jarrell
Jarrell,
Not to fret. The #4s don’t have to tossed aside completely. You can still use them in a yard or a spur - i.e. somewhere off the main that the larger locomotives won’t be accessing. Toss it up to the learning curve: Better now than…[gulp!]…after you soldered and ballasted everything down. [:)]
Tom
Jarrell is a wise modeler already. He proves his track, just like we cautioned him to do.[^][tup]
Lesterperry had it right - the Atlas #4 turnouts in particular, and their Customline turnouts in general (Code 100), have too wide a gap between the guard rails and the stock rails. A sliver of 0.010" styrene glued to the inside face of the guardrail will usually fix that problem. Be sure to sand the ends of the new strip of styrene down to a taper, to keep sharp flanges from picking them.
Weights or a spring on the lead truck will also help, but the flangeways are the biggest issue. Oh, and rounding off and tapering the top corner of the points will also help prevent wheels from “picking the point.”
Gary
“If at first you don’t succeed, get a bigger hammer!” – G. M. Collins