Turnout Questions

Garden Railroading
1

With my initial track plan, I never intended on using turnouts, wanting to keep it simple. In less than a year I realized the convenience of having the ability to have a couple of trains staged on sidings. I have only been able to install one of the turnouts, because it seems there is a major production lag with split jaws. My first question: Is it common for one axle pilot wheels on smaller steam engines to derail going through the switch? I am using Aristo Craft brass USA track and turnouts. The turnout is the first curved section in a R1 semi circle. One 12" straight section precedes the turnout. This area of the layout has a very slight downhill slope, and unless the engine (LGB 2-4-0 typical in starter sets) is crawling, the pilots continue on through in a straight path. The pilot of my live steam Mimi (2-4-2) will do the same, but can handle the curve at a slightly faster speed. There is ample downward pressure on the pilots of both engines, and the turnout rails do position properly. I have a GP30 that has no problem even at relatively fast speeds. Due to the landscape, I don’t have any alternative locations to install the turnout. I noted the derailments occur regardless if I run the engines alone or with a consist. Second question: Any suggestions on type of wire to run from the remote turnouts to where the console is located (approx 20’)? I would be running the wiring underground, but due to the landscape can not use any kind of conduit.

Thanks,
Rich F.

2

Hello Rich,

I have had trouble the LGB wheels and USA turnouts. The LGB wheel flange was too deep for the turnout, wheels were bouncing on the frog and causing derailment unless at very slow speed.

I used a nail file turned on the side to open a small channel on the frog to allow the wheel to run true (wheel flange not bouncing) over the frog. The wheel maintaining proper contact with the rail.

3

First, looks like someone got confused, and to avoid my confusion, you are using Aristo turnouts, with the USA tie spacing, NOT USA brand turnouts, right?

Also, you do not mention which of the 3 types of turnouts made by Aristo is the one in question.

Put a straightedge on the rails through the turnout, spanning 6 inches before, and 6 inches after the turnout. I’ll wager you have a bump or dip somewhere.

Now, level the turnout rails, side to side.

Now, get a Kadee or Aristo wheel gauge and set the back to back wheel spacing on all the wheels of your loco.

If you accomplish all the above, I’ll bet you have no further problems.

Now, some steam pilots are not heavy enough, so you might consider some weight additional weight on it. The Bachmann Annie is one that consistently benefits from this.

If you still have problems, inspect the switch and check that the points fit snugly to the wing rails, and that the inside of the points are not a sharp bump for the wheels following them.

If you have the Aristo wide radius turnout, the frog flange depth is not deep enough for all flanges on all locos, use a small file to deepen it. Also this turnout’s plastic frog is raised from the surrounding rails, many people sand it down flush, but this means more filing on the frog flangeways. Also, this was done to keep some power sliders from shorting to both rails through the frog. Only seems to be a problem on LGB, sliders appear to be bigger.

If you have the #6 switches, there are other fixes, but I think you have the wide radius or the smallest turnout.

Regards, Greg

4

Thanks for all the suggestions. Just to clarify, the turnout in question is an Aristo, #1, with USA tie spacing. I was able to get a closer look at what is happening, and the LGB pilot is definitely bouncing up off the frog and over the top. Chances are the Accucraft pilot is doing the same to a lesser degree. I’ve printed your responses and will keep as reference if (and probably when) I encounter turnout problems in the future. Got some filing to do!

Thanks,
Rich