I have an atlas turnout, and it’s not working right. The problum is the rail that moves(sorry, I don’t know my turnout parts)is bent. It’s bent so much it’s causing the cars to derail. I’ve tryed bending it back, but that hasn’t really helped(I bet if I spend more time on it, It would work). Should I replace the whole turnout. Or is there a way to fix this?
At this point, you have two choices: replace ($), or repair. Where is the distortion…at the very sharp tip of the point rail? Is it not lying flush against the outer stock rail for about 1/2" or a bit more/less?
Do you have a track gauge? You must use it at about three places between the points and the hinge where it pivots. If the gauge points fall between the rails, it is too wide, and naturally some…not all… wheels will fall between the rails. So, what I suggest, since replacing it will cost you, is to place something over the hinge at the tip of the point to support the point rail, a locking tweezer or something fine enough to get in there. Better yet, have someon press it to hold it in position. You’ll also need to support the hinge close to the frog. Then, using the side of a needle file, or anthing thin enough to get between the stock rail and the point rail, put enough pressure against the outer side of the point rail that it bends enough to get back into gauge. That is about all you can do. No great shoving, and do it in several attempts so that you don’t actually kink anything or even break the points tip rivet hinge where your friend is holding it for support. It should work.
Your best bet is to replace it. You might be able to bend the point rail back into shape but you’ll always have doubt about it. Also, if you run steamers, they will pick out ANY discontinuity in the track work, especially a turnout with any kind of problem.
I agree with jeff, replace it believe me I tried todo the same thing. It worked for most rolling stock but not all. If price is an issue my LHS keeps some used stuff in stock and I bought some switches for 2.00 apiece. Just a thought. Dave
My advice? Try to bend it back into shape. Compare it with a good one. Watch as you throw the switch, and see how the moving parts interact with the fixed parts. Slowly roll cars over the turnout by hand, and watch what happens. See how good a job you can do.
My suggestion? Go buy a new one. Then, when you’ve gotten all the knowledge you can out of the old one, rip it up and replace it. Trying to fix it is a worthwhile exercise. There will come a time when you will be quite capable of making minor repairs in place, but this probably isn’t that time yet.
If the rivet has come loose, even a bit, or any of the parts are stretched or compressed beyond what you can bend back, it will just never work right again. And the good Mister Wimberly is right - some big old fussy steam engine is going to find the flaws in your track work. Every time. But having a layout where you can run that engine is worth the trouble to do it all right.
without reading the other responses…replace it replace it replace it…
Ok, I found out what the problum was. The rail that moves(the points?) is bent out by the rivets. It’s causing the weel to jump and derail. And when it goes over slowley and makes it, it switches the rail. I think I can fix it. We will see tommrow. In the mean time, What’s the bust turnout to buy. My friend told me Peco is really good.
I took a really good look at it…and I found out it was a defect. The rail didn’t look like it was bent down like you might think. It was flush. But I got it fixed. Once I had some time to work with it, I could find things out.
Try to fix it. What have you got to lose? If you can’t get acceptable performance out of it, then replace it.
I use Peco and I’m quite happy with them. They have an over-centre spring that holds the points securely in place; Very useful for manual throws or twin-coil switch machines, but easily removed if you use the stall-motor (Tortoise-type) variety. Not the cheapest, and the Code 83 are a better representation of US prototypes than Code 100, but either is fine IMHO.
Chris
WCT, you have found a frequent flaw in commercial turnouts. The very tip is not as sharp as it should be, and some…again, not all, of your wheels will want to jump up, or even pick and open that point. The way around that is to do the following:
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Check the gauges of all of your wheelsets and adjust them.
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Place a wooden match or something like a clipped off plastic tie between the point and the stock rail with the end of the item even with the very end of the point rail. Take a needle file and begin a slow and determined filing of the point until it sharpens up nicely. Remove the gapper item and let the rail return to nestle against its partner. Look much better? Your wheels will be the judge.
Yes, Peco, especially the newer Code 83 Streamline ones, are very good. There is an “issue” with their frog isolation gap placement, but we can talk about that another time…it’s an easy fix.
Peco’s are very good. I use Bachmann turnouts myself but that’s because I use all nickel silver EZ track and I don’t want to mix track types. Too many problems.