I’ve built my first perminate layout and am using peco insul frog turn outs. I used atlas on my “Learner layouts” and had the problem of cracking locos’ going to a dead stop and starting the speed table over. So I decided to go with the peco and applied power yesterday. My locos’ (Mikado & Decopod) are still cracking when they go over these new turnouts. Am I getting a bounce going over the turnouts and losing power. And will I need to add power pick maybe to the tenders??? Getting flustered!! [:(!]
What do you mean by “Cracking”? And getting a “Bounce”?
I’m guessing that you may need to power the frogs or are your turnouts powered from the point side? If not, you may be experiencing a short curcuit.
The cracking is coming from the speaker, I’m guessing that its from momentary loss of power when the loco crosses over the turn out. I don’t beleive that its a short, my system lets me know when theres a short.
That cracking sound you describe sounds like a case of dirty track more than anything else. We have a lot of Peco Insulfrog turnouts on the club layout and have less problem with them than any other brand. Dirty locomotive wheels and dirty track are the most likely cause of your problems. Invest in a good track cleaning block such as a Kato or Peco. Don’t use an abrasive stone such as a Bright Boy because they scratch track. Also clean your locomotive and tender wheels, and this should help.
Its way too late for the bright boy, thats what I did last nite on the track. Did i hurt it???
If so can I correct what I’ve done ??? As far as the turn outs they’re new.
It may be that the flanges are listing the wheels up as you go over the frog. Certain European made locos have extra-deep flanges.
Can you run slowly over the switch and watch where the problem occurs–which wheels and whether one side of the loco lifts a bit.
[banghead]I’m having the most trouble with an Athern Mikado, it just dosen’t
like about 6 of my turnouts. [V]
There have been reports here before about problems with the Athearn Mike’s umbilical cord that you mount the decoder onto being too stiff for the locomotive to go around curves without causing problems. The cure for this is to very, very carefully cut slits into the shrink wrap tubing that is around the wires so they can flex more easily. One person suggested random lengthwise slits, and another said to cut around the bundle. Either way, you have to have a very sharp single-edge razor blade or X-Acto knife and be careful that you don’t cut through the insulation of the wires inside the bundle.