Renewing my interest in this hobby - I am planning a small project (3’x8’) with a few turnouts (switches) and am wondering about the undertable type machines.
I have the benchwork - grid with 3/8" plywood, will be cookie cutter, and if I can find it in Phoenix, some 1 or 2 inch foam (No one here has much need for insulation). I’m not too concerned about the mounting of the machines since I’m using plywood substrate. What the the general thoughts about the various types of mechanisms available? I have seen everything from Atlas snap to Tortoise to Peco to some stall motot types. My ultimate control goal is DCC (still researching that part for the mfg).
I am also concerned about the bed thickness and control rod length.
What is the consensus for the typs and maker of the various machines?
Renewing my interest in this hobby - I am planning a small project (3’x8’) with a few turnouts (switches) and am wondering about the undertable type machines.
I have the benchwork - grid with 3/8" plywood, will be cookie cutter, and if I can find it in Phoenix, some 1 or 2 inch foam (No one here has much need for insulation).[/qote]
Really? So it doesn;t matter how much power you use for air conditioning, just how much you use for heat?
With the thicker bed I found that I need to use a stiffer wire on Tortoise machines. I also used some mirco-mark motors, but I have since been building my own which I bury in the foam immediately under the roadbed. Just think stiffer wire.
And as for the extruded foam insulation, I am sure you will have little difficulty finding it!
I am not sure what the original wire on the tortoises was, I used some stainless wire of about 0.8 or 1.0mm. We use it for a number of other applications and you can buy it from Small Parts Inc. http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/gwxx.cfm
I find Small Parts a great source of material. They also have brass, phosphor bronze and lots of small sizes of wire and rod avaiable in small quantities. I can’t afford to use them for production volume of course but they should be an invaluable resource for modellers!
The Atlas under-table machines have a short throw rod. They should work OK up to about an inch below the level of the track, but after that you will be in trouble. I’ve never used them, but others have said they were unsuccessful in extending the rod.
I’ve used Peco machines. They mount directly to the bottom of the track. If you have Peco turnouts, they come with pre-drilled mounting holes and match up very nicely. There are plastic mounting plates you can use with other turnouts. I’ve put several of these in successfully, too. Since you’re only planning on a few turnouts, I would spend the extra money for Pecos vs. the cheaper Atlas turnouts.
Both Atlas and Peco are twin-coil machines that you drive with momentary-contact switches. I built a capacitive-discharge circuit to provide more of a jolt, and to protect the switch machines. The Pecos in particular work much better this way.
You might consider switchmasters…They are stall motors that can have a throw rod as long as you like. Some people don’t like the little bracket that comes iup in the center of the track, but they are easy to install and do work quite well…
I read all this stuff about switch machines and I wonder. First, it is difficult to screw either Tortise machines or Atlas under table machines to the table top - if it’s wood. I suggest you consider using 2 sided foam tape. Works great and gives you a little play to adjust the machine to make sure the throw rod is positioned just right. I’ve had my Atlas machines fastened in lace for 2 years without a failure. And once the machine is positioned you could screw it in, or glue it to foam. The second issue is cost. Atlas machines are half the price of any other option. I have 50 turnouts in place. Cost is a serious issue. Leibo
That’s a great suggestion for using foam tape to install Atlas switch machines.
I’ll have to give that a try on the few remaining turnouts I haven’t wired yet.
I have used mainly Atlas turnouts but installed a few Walthers turnouts before Atlas came out with their #8 turnouts. I used Peco switch machines for these but discovered the throw pin was a little too thick to fit through the metal ring on the Walthers turnout. I solved that problem by using ordinary T-pins which can be purchased at any office supple store. they are slightly thinner than the pin that comes with the Peco turnout. I just snip out the head of the pin and epoxy it into the sleeve. The sharp end then goes up through the ring in the throw bar and I snip it off as well. Works great.
I don’t understand why people in warmer climates think insulating a house is unnecassary… Just as it can be used to keep heat In a house, it is also useful to keep heat OUT of the house… Not to mention soundproofing. But, if you like spending your money to remove all that heat (AC) fine by me… off of the off topic [soapbox] now…
I’ll give a big recommendation for the tortise… I looked at the others and for under table remote control, they offer the most bang for the buck… Since you are using a 3/8 plywood sub-base mounting won’t be a problem… Further, since you are using atlas turnouts, all that you need do is install a longer wire from the tortise to the turnout points. When mounting them, Screw them on, Don’t fiddle-dork around with 2 sided tape, velcro or any of that other garbage. You can use that stuff to get the tortise alinged but once there, fasten it securely with 4 #6 - 1/2" machine screws… Stall motors are Always powered and Always have resulting forces that Can move them…
I reccomend the tortise over any other for the simple fact that they have
One advantage of Atlas rather than motor driven machines is the ability to set up push buttons in parallel in more than one spot (at a control panel and along the fascia for example). Add a relay for signal lighting, and the cost is still slightly less than tortoise.
rolleiman I most certainly agree that the insulatio of a house serves multiple purposes. I have checked the local sources for thicher foam, the best I can find is 1" at the Home Depot. So I guess the answer is to use multiple layers to siumlate the variations in terrain for my model.
I have decided to go with the tortoise machines. I am a believer in build it well built it once.
Thanks to all respondnats… I appreciate the input. What a wonderful hobby and a very supportive community.
I completely understand… I’m still looking for the foam… I did the web search thing and discovered that Ownes-Corning send you to Home-Despot - no luck… They say there is no reason to in these warm climes.
Talk to a roofing contractor. I understand that even in hot climates they use extruded polystyrene sheetong under the rubber membrane on flat roofs, especially on large buildings.