I’ve been having trouble with Atlas Code 83 #4 turnouts. The pivots for the points are tight and the snap switch machine doesn’t throw the points all the way across. Looking underneath the switch…there are bent tabs…pretty cheap…anybody else use these?
Thanks…
CaptainMikeD
Those tabs are pretty reliable. Are you sure there isn’t some ballast or garbage next to or under the point rails keeping it from moving all the way? Did you try removing the switch machine to make sure it’s the turnout and not the machine itself?
Thanks for the advice…please excuse taking so long to reply…no the point movement (path) is clear… the plastic “T” that the snap machine solenoid arm couples to on the switch does not move parallel to the ties … it swings/rocks up slightly putting pressure on the switch mach arm…not allowing it to move the points to fully travel to the rails…I think I’ll try tortoise machine in order to hold the points securley against the stock rails… I did notice that the snap switch machine also has a small indent where the switch can be thrown manually… if this indent is not engaged…the points are not held against the stock rails…perhaps this was just a defective switch…
Regards…capt Mike
Mike,
Is this an issue in both directions of throw or only one?
Tortoise(s) are the best way of course.
Karl
PS: Captain of what? If I may ask.
I used the Atlas under table switch machines on my last layout. I learned something after using them…new cuss words.
Atlas switch machines don’t even make decent paperweights - too light.
If you want to use twin-coil machines (easier to control from multiple locations than stall motors) you can either buy RIX machines (in the January Walthers Flyer) or hunt up some of the old KTM/Kemtron rock smashers on E-Gadbay. The only reason that I still own a half-dozen uninstalled Atlas machines is that I haven’t tossed them yet. (They were yard sale package deal queens, and I don’t even know if they operate.)
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Those dang things didn’t work for me 50 years ago, and I haven’t used them since.
Mark
After taking a bunch of friends striped bass fishing on my boat, they started calling me Captain Mike…it just stuck…
When the switch is snapped to the diverging rails…the point doesn’t make full contact…this switch ma just be an exception…thanks for your input…
Atlas Snap Switches are your problem – they are the shoddiest of the shoddy construction. Get some better quality Atlas Mark IV turnouts.
The custom line turnouts are definitely much better hands down compared to the snap switch’s that being said the snap switch are are pretty much reliable for the most part but are just on the lower end of the quality scale. There are more problems with those guaranteed to burnout twin coil switch machines then anything else. In my O/P if your going to invest the money on a Tortoise spend the $12.00 for a #4 Custom line turnout, if not it’s going to be like throwing good money after bad.
The Atlas switch machines will live long lives and work well if a Capacitive Discharge Unit (CDU) is used to power them. Most newer power packs don’t have enough current output to properly kick a twin coil solenoid (Atlas and other twin coil switch machines), so the button is held down longer than it should be. Result is burnout city. The CDU stores the energy to deliver in a single, quick jolt to the switch machine, and then automatically tapers off the current to nearly nothing as the capacitor is discharged. Result is more energy to move the points, and no burnouts.
A CDU is easily built for a few dollars worth of parts as a 1st electronics project. One circuit I’m partial to is the “Current Blocking CD Switch Machine Power Supply” about 1/3 of the way down this page (http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/CDPSU.html). I would change the 4 diodes on the left side to a full wave bridge. And a 1 amp or even less powerful AC supply is sufficient if you can wait 2-3 seconds between throwing turnouts. There are many other fine circuits available on the web, and Circuitron sells a commercial unit if you can’t bring yourself to build your own.
The other big advantage of a CDU is longer life for the push buttons or toggles used to control the switch machines. My first and only Atlas switch machine burnout occurred when the button on the Atlas control switch stuck in the “down” position without me knowing it until the smell gave things away. The burnout would have been prevented by a CDU. But I also gave up on the Atlas switch machine controllers. With my CDU, I’ve not had a lick of problems with Atlas, Rix, NJ International, Lindsay, or Kemtron switch machines.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
Fred
Amen
I had to learn the hard way. After using a CD circuit I never had a problem. I flipped the Atlas motor over put it under the table and used a bell crank to operate the turnout. Much cheaper than some other methods. Of course IMHO half the fun is achieving your objective without throwing money at it.
Being new at this hobby, if I get stumped on something I put it on hold until I can think of a solution or I pickup an idea from someone else.
There is no one way to do anything.
have fun
Lee
Learn how to hand lay your turnouts (it’s not that difficult - the first one I did 18 years ago still works great) and use Handscraft Display Motors or Tortoise machines and you’ll be able to just throw the actuator and roll on through! Besides occasionally running a Bright Boy lightly over my trackwork, I never have any problems.
I used Atlas switch machines on my first layout. After loosening the rivet pivot points from that 10 megaton THWACK, I went with Tortoises.