I was thinking of buying a turntable but how do i know if the rails will line up?I know that this is a very newbish question but if the rails dont line up will there be no power? or will my train derail???
I am still on that everlasting delema of finding a trackplan, both have 2 levels and i was wondering, is it possible to roadbed on a grade? also how do i know what grade is acceptable?
If i have a second level am i going to ruin the bottom level hammering my track in?
my space has increased to about 4x5 so is an n scale grade possible to bring in a semi circle up to about 10 cm?
is there anything else i should know before choosing my plan?im looking at two different ones so what should i be looking for?
Turntables normally supply power to the rails through the axle of the turntable, so power isn’t necessarily the problem–but yes, if the turntable isn’t lined up right the engine will derail.
“Roadbed” isn’t a verb, so far as I know, so no, it is not possible to roadbed on a grade, but it is possible to have a roadbed that is on a grade–if your roadbed is not level (it goes uphill or downhill) then it is, by definition, on a grade. About a 2% grade is considered typical–more than that and your engines will encounter serious problems in pulling power.
A change in grade of 10cm at 2% grade would require 500 cm of track–if your track space is 4x5 meters you should have room for 500 cm of track. Keep in mind that you will have to ease into the curve–it will gradually go from 0% to 1% to 2% of grade at the bottom, then from 2% to 1% to flat at the top. And remember that unless this is a point-to-point track plan, you will need another 500 cm to get back down!
What should you be looking for? Well, what is it that you are looking for out of a track plan? We can’t tell you that…
Making sure the rails line up is called “indexing”. Some turntables do this automatically, others are manual. It should say so on the box; if not, ask the clerk in the store. You most definitely have to line the rails up in order to keep your trains from derailing as they enter/leave the turntable.
In most (if not all) cases, the power is fed to the turntable rails via the pivot point.
Generally speaking, it is prefered to keep your grades as shallow as possible. Most modellers (with the exception of those modelling mountainous/lumber operations) try to keep grades to 4% or less; with 2 to 3% being prefered. Just how steep a grade you use depends on the type of equipment and operations you’re running; the geographical region you’re modelling; and the space available to you.
The simplest way to build a grade (incline) is to use pre-made foam inclines from Woodland Scenics. It is possible to build your own if you want to save money and don’t mind the extra work.
Grades are calculated as a percentage — eg : 2%, 4%, etc… To calculate your grade, divide the rise (height) by the run (length), and multiply by 100… Rise ÷ Run × 100 = %grade example : 2 unit rise ÷ 100 unit run × 100 = 2% grade
I don’t understand this question. [%-)] What exactly are you asking ?
for the hammering question i meant will hammering in the second level wreck the layer underneath it? or should i build it first then lay it ontop?
i dont want any strain on my locos so that grade is ok. Woodland scenic risers?i have seen these but i am yet to see how these can be made to look realistic. The only thing i have seen is plater on the side to hide it. is there any other easier way?
I can’t see how working on the upper level will damage the lower level unless you are standing on the lower level to work on the upper.
That said, to avoid damage to tracks (from falling tools, etc.), it is probably best to lay the tracks on the lower level last (or, at least, protect them in some way).
The WS Inclines (not risers, which are totally different), are designed to be covered by your landscaping/scenicking.
To clarify, WS inclines will provide even, exact grades. WS risers will horizontally raise your track to a different level. You’ll need the inclines to get up to the risers.
When you ask about a second level, what exactly are you referring to?? When I think of a second level I think of what would amount to two complete layouts stacked one on top of the other, separated by enough space to view and work on the lower one… What you appear to be describing is a single level with grades. 10cm isn’t very much separation for a 2 level layout. Or did I read your posts wrong…
Your putting up too many road blocks for yourself. If you plan ahead do your drawing on the layout before laying track and setting the turntable and structures. You can check/verify clearances and angles. The rails in the turntable have to be independently powered. This can done using several methods. I used a large jack.
Grades… I have grades up to 8% (5% on main lines) The usual maximum grade in the real world is about 1.5%. You may want to keep it below 4% as anything above and your smaller engines will slip considerably.
You could consider going with modules where you build the bulk of a section on a bench then assemble the remainder on the layout. Avoid hammering and go with screws or nut and bolt.