I’m afraid that’s not the way I read the schematic, Chris. I see terminal D as a tap on the accessory transformer. E and F (unlabeled on the 1953 version) are also on that transformer. Although they provide 14 volts between them, they can be used with the common terminal, A. E then provides 12 volts and F provides 26. The E-A combination is not protected by the accessory circuit breaker.
The service manual says, “For best power utilization, current for the track should be drawn from the variable voltage coil with post ‘A’ being connected to the outside rails. This will permit current for 022 switches and other track components or accessories having a common ground with the track to be drawn from the ‘D’ post Current for lights or independently operated accessories should be taken from the 14-volt circuit of the fixed voltage coil through the pair of unlettered terminals [E and F after 1953].”
So, powering the turnouts from D does not reduce the current available from U for the train.
A is common. U-A uses the variable coil. D-A uses the fixed windings. D,E, & F all use the fixed windings at 14, 12, & 26 volts respectively to “A”.
C-A will give you 18 volts fixed, but off the variable windings. C-U will give you 11-0 volts variable - that’s right - in reverse of throttle markings - with no whistle/direction control, from the variable windings.
Using “A” as common. there are several combinations that will allow you to run/operate O22 turnouts(D to fixed voltage plug), or any accessories activated by an insulated tracks (e.g., crossing gate) at 12, 14, or 26(a little high for most accessories…) volts…
Thanks I plan on running a virginan engine from the 50’s that my father has handed down to me. I will also be running a few accesiories that have some lights. I should be ok.
Bob and Rob, thanks for correcting the confusion I may have caused. I did indeed mis-read the schematic. I even have a TW packed away somewhere - I guess it’s past time I started using it!
Thanks Everyone I nhave the train running right now just a couple of switches that I need to take a look at as they dont seem to be getting the same power as the rest. Also how easy is it to but a new cord on the trasformer as I think that I have a short in it near the plug head? Thanks again.
Are you sure it’s a short circuit? That would be fairly spectacular and maybe trip a house circuit breaker. If it just stops working when you move the cord, that’s an open circuit. If it’s indeed right at the plug, consider just replacing the plug. You can probably find a decent replacement at any home-improvement store. Some of them can even be installed without any tools.
yes I have to bend the cord near the head in order to get power to the transformer. would it be easier to just replace the whole thing rather then the head. its the orginaial cord from the 50’s cant beleive that it lasted this long. Thanks again
If it’s still supple, there’s no reason to replace it; and it’s a lot easier to replace just the plug. I’m using an 80-year-old type T with an original cord that will likely outlast me.
The original plug on your TW would not be polarized, while the replacement probably will be. If you don’t care, it doesn’t matter electrically which way you put it on. But, if the cord has what they call an “identified conductor”, you might want to connect that conductor to the fat blade. The way it is “identified” is by molding a very subtle ridge into the outside edge of the insulation. If the ridge is there, you may be able to feel it by rubbing your thumb lightly across the cord. Another approach to take is to file or grind the fat blade so that the plug is unpolarized like the original. The blades of most plugs are not wider along their full length but just at the tip.