I plan to add a decoder to my Bowser twin motor T1 to make it DCC operational.
I already have the spacers to insulate the motors from the frame.
Do I connect the decoder in series with the two motors or parallel?
Doc
I plan to add a decoder to my Bowser twin motor T1 to make it DCC operational.
I already have the spacers to insulate the motors from the frame.
Do I connect the decoder in series with the two motors or parallel?
Doc
Connect the decoder in parallel, but try to measure the current draw of both motors combined under a heavy load to determine how hefty a decoder you’re going to need. If there’s room, you may need an O scale decoder to handle the current load.
I installed a single TCS T-1 decoder into an Athearn dual-motor DD40X locomotive and it handles the load okay, but I haven’t pulled a really long train with it up a 2 percent grade, either.
In the early days of DCC, decoder manufacturers came up with the “stall current” measure to protect themselves against warranty replacement demands, but most locomotives will spin their wheels instead of stalling under load.
I highly suggest you repower your T1 before you install and destroy decoders. Remember that this loco has a free current of 1 amp and a stall current of near 3 amps…!!!..ask me how I know…
Accurate lighting makes a repower kit for this loco and will make it run smoother and with a fraction of the amp draw.
David B
Thanks for the help guys.
I know very little about decoders and only installed one in a GG1.
The T1 has never been run like all the rest of my Bowser engines so I don’t want to replace all their motors if possible. What is the best way to determine what size decoder I will need to run the two motors?
Doc
You will need a 3 amp decoder. The only ones available are for G scale and they might fit in the tender…might…and they are not cheap.
The other issue is your DCC system. Which one are you using as 3 amps will trip most starter systems and task other high-end systems.
Trust me, you need to change the motors for this to be practical.
David B
To verify the current at STALL, you will have to setup a DC ammeter. If you have a V-O-M (Volt-Ohm-Meter; also referred to as a multimeter) set it up to measure current. Make sure it can measure current over 3 amperes. Place it in line with your power pack’s output to the track by removing one wire from the output terminal and attaching your meter to the open terminal and the wire you disconnected. This places the meter in SERIES with the connection to the track. Gator clip jumper leads will make this type of connection simple. Set the throttle to 12 - 14V with the loco on the track and with your hand stop the wheels from turning, creating the stall. Measure the current. This value will determine your decoder requirements.
I concur regardless of the outcome, you will have better results and less headaches if you replace the motors; well worth the effort and cost in this case. If you ever decide to add sound, this will be a requirement and NOT an option.
I guess I am going to re-think this project. My DCC system is the Digitrax Zephyr. I don’t know how many amps it handles but 3 amps sounds like a lot. I plan on using sound and have 3 engines now that are sound equipped.
I have seen a modeling project for the T1 where the modeler disconnected one of the motors. I guess the reason was the same, too big of a current draw.
Now my question is could I use one motor with the other disconnected or will the performance still not measure up to replacing the motors with new can motors.
Your advice would be appreciated.
Doc
You know what? I strongly suggest you sell your T1 and buy a Broadway T1. That way you dont have to worry about repowering (which is absolutely essential in this case…no way around it) and you have sound to boot. In fact, they are on sale at some online discount stores.
David B
Thanks for all the advice and suggestions.
Unfortunately the new technology has passed me by with the DCC and sound capability. I have collected ten DC steam locomotives over the years and planned on using them now on my layout.
The cost to re-motor, add DCC and sound equip each one would probably equal the cost of brand new locomotives. So that is the dilemma.
I think I will take your advice and re-motor my favorite ones for the time being. Definitely any new locomotive purchases will be DCC and sound equipped. Once you have seen DCC and sound in action it is like moving up from a black and white TV to a color set (only the old guys like me will relate to this).
Doc
Remember “It’s Howdy Doody Time”? On a round screen black and white 9 or 11 inch TV screen? I sure do.
And having to have a tall tower with a yagi antenna on the roof to receive the one TV station that was in Saint Louis, MO at the time (KSD-TV). And KSD was the only TV station within hundreds of miles.
And the picture would flutter for several minutes every time an airplane got within 10 miles.