When buying wire for wiring turnouts (extending the wire that came with remote turnout) which is best the solid type or the strand type (tiny wires wound together)?
Thanks.
For screw terminals it’s mostly a matter of preference, although I think you need one size larger wire in the strand version to equal the capacity of solid. For soldering I find solid easier to work with. Personally, I use solid for everything, but I know others use stranded or both.
Enjoy
Paul
I agree with Paul. I feel that solid wire is easier to work with. Some people will worry about the wire breaking, but I’ve never had a problem with a broken solid wire. Stranded wire is good for places where wire flexibility is beneficial. Such as jumpers between modules, or inside locomotives where trucks rotate and there is a lot of vibration.
The only issue I have with stranded wire is trying to keep all the strands together. The best way I’ve found is to twist the strands, then tin them with solder. This effectively turns the end of the stranded wire into a solid wire for terminal connections.
Otherwise, there isn’t that much a difference.
Dale B.
[8D]
Strictly for powering remote (snap-action) turnouts – all I use is 4 pair telecom cable. You get 8 solid #18 copper conductors, which are adequate for the power requirement.
There is also the convenience of being able to power 3 nearby turnouts, with the one cable pull (you’ll need one of the 4th pair for the ground - which may be common).
[:D]
Thanks guys. I was in our local Radio Shack and saw so many different types of wire that I decided to ask here before buying. As you have probably guessed by now, I’m a newbie building my first HO layout (5’x8’). Doubtless I will be back for more advice!
solid telephone wire with telephone wire squeeze connectors is the way to go.
The main reason to use stranded wire (i.e., multiple small wires all together in one insulation sheath, like you’d find if you cut a piece of lampcord wire) is if you need something flexible. This is why in household wiring, what’s in the walls is solid wire, not stranded, whereas lamp cords and other appliance cords are stranded (they get moved around a lot).
I would recommend solid wire for any part of the layout that won’t move…this should be nearly everything. If you are into a modular layout, use stranded wire for the pigtails that will connect to other modules, but solid for everything in the module. If you have throttles that are wired to the layout, use stranded for that.
Rule of thumb: If a human being will be holding one end of the wire (or the object connected to the wire), or will need to plug/unplug the wire on a routine basis, make it stranded. If it is something that will be out of sight and is attached to something solid, use sold.
I think cheap. That’s what wire I use. Ususally speaker wire or bell wire. Here lately lots of ethernet cable is becoming surplus and can be got for free. Same with printer cables and other computer cables. Just keep your eyes open. FRED
For some, your question borders on the religious. As stated above, stranded works best if the wire is going to be moved a lot. On layouts, wiring just doesn’t get moved that much.
On my layout, I went with a solid bus wire (the main big wires) and stranded feeders. My choice may sound logical but it isn’t. I thought I had bought solid feeders, only to discover I hadn’t - so I went with what I had purchased which was stranded.
it doesn’t really make any difference.
in a pure electrical sense there is a difference in the resistance between the two types but for what we are doing it makes bug all difference.
Neil’s absolutely right, with respect to wiring for remote turnouts – which was Chris Spratt’s original question.
As the thread has developed however, people have wandered off the subject – most unusual !!
Newbies should be warned that choice of wire size MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE when it comes to your track power supply.
WIDER IS BETTER – (to borrow an auto industry ad. slogan) – your 12volts DC will diminish proportionately to the distance from your power connections (due to the small cross section and relative conductivity of your rails).
Therefore, many of us add power feeders, spaced throughout the blocks for DC and simply “spaced out” for DCC, to maintain voltage (and consistent performance) all over the layout.
Logically these power feeders need to be of larger cross section, than the rails (e.g. #8 or “speaker” wire), to be of any benefit.
Certainly you don’t want to use #18 telephone wire to run multiple freight units – frankly you would be running the risk of fire !!
Most don’t go as large as #8 wiring, in fact… lol… I think you are the first I have read about. I use house hold #14 for my power buses and #22 for my feeders. The feeders just aren’t that long so you can get away with a higher numbered (but smaller wire) for your feeders.
#14 house hold wire is popular as it is good enough to handle 15 amps in household wiring and it is the cheapest way to buy it. You just cut the wire out of the outer protective wrapping.
I use stranded, about 18 or 20 gauge. The only reason is because I have LOTS. My grandfather was into inventing and had about 15 1000’ spools of 3-conductor stranded. This wire has worked fine for me.
Reed
Stranded wire here. Only as I have lots of it. Five rolls of 100’ 18 guage each, 5 different colours.
Gordon
I connect my stranded switch leads, via crimp type (the smallest Radio Shack carries) telephone connectors to solid 22ga. when I need more length than is provided in switch assemblies. Since all my runs are short (10 or fewer feet) and loads light (one locomotive per block) I don’t have a voltage drop problem with 22ga. wire.
If you haven’t tried connecting using the aforementioned crimp connectors; “Try it. You’ll like it.”.
I use solid wire. I have used stranded wire in the past, but I find that the solid wire is easier to work with. My experience is that, unless you are constructing a modular layout that will be moved a lot, or unless you are wiring a liftout section of track, your wires will not be moved significantly.
There are not enought screws with the Atlas Snap Switches. Can you purchase more? What is the screw number?