Types of Turnouts?

Guys,

I’m not to that part yet or even starting a layout but I was just out my LHS at lunch and was looking at turnouts. I’m modeling in today’s era and was wondering what is the type of turnout that I should be looking for. Do I use #6, #8 or what? Does it differ from mainline to siding? are branchline different?

Is there a place where I can find this kind of info or do I need to learn it from you guys?

The issue is the radius of the curved section of the turnout. What you do depends on what you run. If you want fast trains with long engines some want as much as 36" curves. You then need turnouts to match. For smaller engines and slower running, like in yards, you can use tighter curves. I have a lot of 18" curves and #4 turnouts. It does limit which articulates I can run, but that fits my mountain theme.

That is a start, you will get more and better from the other guys.

the TO number is a rough “angle” of sorts for the TO. I don’t remember the math behind it to convert to real world degree measurements, but basicly it means the diverging route will move away from the through route at 1 units laterally for every X units forward (where X = the TO #).

IE if you have a #4 TO, and the measurements are in inches, the diverging route will move away from the through line 1 inch for every 4 inches further you get from the frog.

A #6 will seperate at a rate of 1" per 6" of distance from the frog…

and so on. Hope that this helps (and that someone can explain the actual angles/radii for them)

turnout dimensions can be found in this handy chart from nmra

http://www.nmra.org/standards/pdf/rp12.pdf

Thanks guys. This is a good start. I’m looking to run big freight trains and large engines on at least 36" curves. I just figured that I would use No. 8 turnouts because guys like Pelle Soeborg use them.(or was it No. 6? Shoot, I can’t remember now!) Needless to say he has big modern trains and so will I. but I think that it is good to know how it is, instead of “It just does”.

#6’s would work well, you would just need to test it (IE can you run through at 60 scale mph), a #8 would more than likely work without any problems…though I’ve been wrong on many occasions…

code rail size says something about how heavy of trains can be expected to run on the track.
code 40-70, well, mostly branchlines light use lines, 70-83, branch to mainline use medium use to heavy trains, code 83-100, heavy use main line.

number 4 switches pretty much for sharp curve yards and smaller equipment.
number 5’s should be able to handle most anything, the club I was in used those a lot as a space saver and yet handle most equipment.
6’s-8’s, sure long mainline stuff, cars.

Here’s a link to the NMRA’s RP11 http://www.nmra.org/standards/rp-11.html
To run all the modern locomotives and cars you’ll want 40" radius and #7 turnouts minimum. Larger turnouts and curves will make the equipment look and run better especially at speed. Branchlines and sidings may use smaller curves or turnouts, provided the cars and locomotives used there are smaller also.
Enjoy
Paul

WHAT we call ‘Turnouts’ are called ‘Switches’ by real RR’s. No matter, In no# of degrees ‘higher’ means ‘sharper’ - not so in our modeling world where ‘LOWER’ = ‘SHARPER’.

‘SHARPER’ on the Prototype also translates to SLOWER. Real Railroads have an aversion to tipping over. (Modelers - seemingly less so).Think of numbered switches - er turnouts - as ‘higher’ means faster. A #8 is a higher speed #6.

NOW to practicalities: “Turnout” may imply NMRA Specs. Beware! Foreign made “switches” are built on metric curves - and as such make for poor crossovers and passing sidings due to excessive ‘S’ curve. Shinohara made products are an exception.

A #4 is a yard ‘turnout’ - and works best with 4 axle engines. A#6 ‘turnout’ is a popular because it gives fewer problems with popular steam and 6 axle diesel engines . A#6 makes a good passing siding, wheras a #8 is better for hi speed - but at the price of taking up more space.

SYNOPSIS: #8 #10 - high speed; #6 - mainline; #4 #5 -Yards; "Snap Switches’- beginners only. Europeans design to be part of a metric Circle. Exceptions: Sure. (Peco code 83 - new).

Branchlines: lighter track - try code 70- 75