Being somewhat aware of how enamel paint stripers work, I’m fearful that it is infact the Walther’s Skytop taildome I’m scraping.
I freelanced a Skytop a while back, decided I wanted to try again at painting it. Since I used enamels (all I had in spray) I dropped the sides and dome into some ELO and allowed to soak. Since I didn’t have enough to immerse the dome, I had to roll it over to get both sides. The walls came out mostly grey with the blue melded in, as is nornal. The top of the Skytop came out with a rubber-colored transpaerent brown tacky film on it. Kinda thick too. Only on the top from the tipp down one row of widows, but it’s also on the inside. What it reminds me of in texture is liquid masking tape, or a rubber ssomething from Mom’s old typesetting days that was in her drawer. But Dad only put it on the windows, and I took that stuff off.
Have I detrimentally damaged the dome, maybe it was a different kind of plastic that should not be sptripped with ELO?
Flashwave, I might not be of much help but I sympathize with you as I’ve stripped a lot of plastic models over the years. Can you provide a photo as that would be helpful? I’m ASSUMING that you’re referring to the skeletal framework of the Skytop and not the glass itself. You’re likely correct but to be certain, double check that it is a layer of film on the framework and not the plastic surface itself. Without seeing what it looks like, my best “suggestive guest” is that if it is a layer of the stripper that had a reaction to the material being stripped on a particular section, see if it can be carefully peeled off. If that is not doable and it’s hardened up and no longer tacky, carefully sand it to surface level using 3M Wet/Dry sand paper. Use successive grits ( 320, 400, 600, 1,000, and finish off with 1,500). Again, I’m just imagining your car’s appearance and repairing the problem in my head. Please post photos showing 2 or 3 views, if you can. With a photo, you’ll likely get quite a bit of feedback Hope this “starts” you on a path to a solution.
It has lost its tack, yes. And no, I mean the glass. Walthers molded the entire back curved dome window thingy and then painted around the windows. Which will make getting a photo of the inside eanerly impossible. If It were on a flat side, a pic would already be here.
OK, now I understand. I see the discoloration on the glass ( I think). This might or might not work. I’ve wet sanded and buffed out clear plastic surfaces before with success in the majority of cases. The major factor for success is the type of clear plastic that is being worked on.
Here’s what I use for clear plastics, including acrylics:
A) 3M 1200 grit,
B) 3M 1500 grit,
C) 3M 2000 grit
D) Fine or medium rubbing compound
E) Finishing compound.
If it is not removable, mask off the area surrounding the glass assembly. Isolate it completely.
Carefully wet-sand the glass with 1200 grit using vertical strokes only. The glass should have a dull, hazy appearance when you are finished.
Carefully wet-sand the glass with 1500 grit using horizontal strokes. At this stage, your glass should appear almost completely opaque.
There should be no rush in the sanding process as you want to sand every square cubic inch of glass.
Apply 1 drop of rubbing compound on to the surface (approximately the diameter of your index finger nail)
Using a clean, very soft terry cloth towel-material, manually buff the surface in a circular motion. Take your time and continually turn the towel over. Use “a lttle pressure” but don’t turn into the Hulk! The glass “should” start taking on a better appearance after a few minutes of gentle buffing. If you see trouble spots, moisten them with a tiny drop of water and continue buffing.
After stopping to check your work, if a haze remains, apply smaller drops of compound and buff again. If things are going well, the glass should be appearing decent with som
