Has anyone ever tried any magnetic uncoupling alternatives to the Kadee magnetic uncouplers. Wouldn’t any type of magnet work as long as the trip pins could get close enough to be tripped?
Brian
A permanent magnet can cause inadvertent uncoupling, so the best alternative is an electromagnet that is activated by you with a pushbutton only when you want to uncouple.
Personally, I never use magnetic uncoupling. I cut half of the trip pin length off on all my couplers and use a pick formed from a piece of brass tubing flattened on the end. This allows uncoupling in any location and avoid the problems associated with magnets.
I suppose any magnet would work (maybe). I know Bachmann makes an under the track magnet an I know it works. How ever I don’t use them or any magnetic uncoupler, especially on main lines because of false uncoupling. This is just my personal preference. On my Erie HO layout I may use a few under the track type magnets for industrial sideings but not on the main lines. Ken
It may sound crazy but I cut mine in half. I model in N and I only use them to uncouple at locations more than 16" from the edge, otherwise I use the pick method.
In N the original magnet is almost as ling as a 50’ boxcar, so I keep them to a minimum. It looks better to.
Does anyone make an electromatic uncoupler in N?
foamer13. Check out www.kadee.com. They have an electromagnetic uncoupler for HOn3 which I assume uses N guage track. It may work for you??? Ken
I have used most all of the uncoupling magnets including the permanent and the electromagnetic. I didn’t care for how any of them worked as each left something to be desired. I finally got an uncoupling tool from Rix that can be used almost anywhere on the layout (except for some hard to reach places, for those I would use the electromagnet types). The URL for the tool follows.
Actually, no. I believe that the kaydee uncouplers have the N and S poles of the magnet on the outside (narrow) edges of the magnet, not the top and bottom. They are made that way to pull the uncoupling “hoses” toward the outside near the tracks. Otherwise they would just be pulled downward toward the ground.
—————N rail——————————————
| (magnet)N(magnet)|
|_S|
—————S rail ——————————————
Crude drawing but I hope helpfull.
The Rix tool works good, as long as the trip pins are present and proerly adjusted. One caution: Metal handrails on Athearn locos and cabooses. You can dang near pick up the caboose with the tool if you’re careful! [;)]
At one time Cuda Technologies made an electro-magnetic under-track uncoupler. I tried searching for them through Google, and couldn’t find them. They may not offer it any more. I’m thinking about trying to build one myself.
The original uncoupler was reviewed in the Dec. '96 MR.
Rob
I tried all the magnetic ones and they suck. Period. I tried an AccuMate pick which worked ok, but not great, so I use either a scratch awl or the old “0-5-0” switcher. I don’t mind gettin’ my hands dirty. [:D]
Ray out.
I have seen a permanent magnet mounted under the roadbed and hinged on one end allowing the magnet to swing down away from the track when its not being used. This prevents those false uncouplings. I am going to try this on a couple of my yard throats. I believe howmus is correct about the orientation of the magnet, also.
on my n scale layout i use a rix pick to uncouple cars. i put one at each location where i want to uncouple cars. on my clubs ho layout they do not have any magnets to uncouple. i have been using bamboo barbeque skewers with a little bit of the sharp point rounded off and they work good. they come in packages of 100 for a buck at the supermarket. if you don’t round of the point you can pick out the knuckle spring if you are not carefull.