Ok, they say there are no stupid questions so here goes. Uncoupling levers seem to be a popular detail addition to our models. Question is, how are those levers used on 1:1 models. How do they work?
OK the lever reaches from the coupler to the side of the car by the step. When you raise the handle it pulls the pin that keeps the knuckle closed allowing the coupler to open.
The name “pin” is a holdover, probably from as far back as the old link and pin days, which is what they’re called here in the states even today. What you’re calling a “lock” is a rod shaped piece of steel about 2 to 3 inches in diameter (some are even oval) that holds the knuckle closed. A lot of terminology is different in the different countries. The “lock lifter” is also called a cut lever here. Not even sure what you’re talking about with a “knuckle thrower.” We couple and uncouple cars, not carriges.
The gizmo (to use a technical term[:D]) sticking out of the top of the coupler - the thing with one link of chain attached to it - is what is in common parlance called the “pin”. Normally it is connected to the uncoupling lever by a chain, pulling the lever up “pulls the pin” and opens the coupler.
Please, if you’re going to cite a web page, make it something a little more authoritative than Wikipedia…particularly not one that describes a knuckle coupler as a “towing hitch”…
Common parlance or not, the so-called “pin” is not what keeps the knuckle closed. Next time you dismantle a real, 12" to the foot scale coupler, have a good look at what’s inside.
Mine too - I 'm also person who works on them. I have 32 knuckle couplers dismantled and sitting on the workshop floor right now, waiting for the NDT bloke to come in on Monday morning and crack test them.
Now this statement alone makes me believe we’re talking about two different types of couplers. The ones here in the US don’t have any part that pushes the knuckle open. The knuckle is opened by lifting the pin (that’s what it’s called here in the US, and I never said it was a rod, just sort of rod shaped) and the brakeman grabbing the knuckle and pulling it open or pulling the adjoining car away.
And yes, I have had couplers apart and coupled and uncoupled cars in 12 inch to the foot scale.
I suppose that’s possible, but the couplers we use are AAR Type Es, sourced from a supplier in the US, McConway & Torley. I can’t imagine any reason why they’d differ from those used in the US. But now I’m wondering - I’ll take my camera to work with me tomorrow, post the photos here, and see what transpires. In the meantime, I’ve pasted a description of the Type E couplers I found online. The emphasises are mine.
Title: Type-E railroad car coupler head
Document Type and Number: United States Patent 4363414
Link to this Page: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4363414.html
Abstract: A railroad car coupler includes a Type-E coupler head which contains a vertical lock chamber. Disposed in the chamber is a lock which may be raised from a lower locking position to an intermediate lockset position. At lockset, a knuckle pivotally carried by the coupler head may swing from a closed position to an open position. At lockset, the lock rests on a knuckle thrower of the coupler head with a lockset seat of the lock engaging a leg lock seat portion of the knuckle thrower. By forming the lockset seat of the lock on a selective lateral slope, the lock may be tilted toward a guard arm side of the coupler head. When the knuckle is swung toward its open position, a sufficient area of a tail portion of the knuckle passes under the lock to insure a proper pick-up of the lock to remove the lock from lockset.
I didn’t site Wikipedia as a source, I posted a link to picture that showed the part of the coupler I was talking about, just happened on a quick websearch the first pic I came across was in Wikipedia.
What the manufacturer or the FRA or AAR calls the parts of a janney coupler is a part of the story, but as with many things, working railroaders use other terms. In the US the part I referred to is called “the pin” and railroads call uncoupling cars “pulling the pin”. Working railroaders often use terms different from what other people would use.
Why? Do you think I’ve never seen a knuckle coupler before?
LOL! You’re a working railroader, are you?
I don’t care what vernacular terms are used by “working railroaders” to describe uncoupling - that’s a separate issue. It doesn’t change what components make up a knuckle coupler, nor how they work. The original statement that the so-called “pin” keeps the knuckle closed is wrong, and that’s what I set out to correct. None of your semantic arguments address that fact.
On most modern freight cars, the uncoupling lever is connected under the coupler and lifting the lever pushes up unlocking the knuckle.
If a knuckle is closed (on an end not coupled to another car) and you lift the lever, it should open the knuckle. If it doesn’t, that part (I think I’ve seen knuckle thrower used elsewher) is defective. The coupler will still work, except the knuckle will have to be opened manually. In my experience, it seems like you had to pull the lever up a few times for the knuckle to open far enough to couple. Usually easier, if there is the proper clearance between equipment, to reach in and pull it open manually.
One of our conductors who helps in field training new-hires related this story to me. He had a class out in the yard showing how couplers worked. He lifted the lever and the knuckle didn’t open on it’s own. A mechanical dept employee happened to be near and saw this. The car man told the conductor he just made the railroad $50.00 and bad ordered the foreign line car. The part that should open the knuckle was broken and it was a billable repair to the owner of the car. If there is one thing railroads like fixing, it’s someone else’s equipment.
“Pulling the pin” is slang for operating the cut lever. It’s a hold-over from the days of link and pin couplers.
The knuckle pin is a steel rod that holds the knuckle in the coupler and allows the knuckle to pivot.
When you lift the cut lever, the lever lifts the lock, allowing the knuckle to pivot on the pin. Lifting the lock also pushes the knuckle thrower out. This should open the knuckle. However, the thrower is usually the first part of the coupler to fail, so the knuckle may not open on its own.
Hostility? No, I’m simply stating my case, based on my knowledge and experience of the topic.
In my view, there is a great need to be right when posting here. The forum is promoted as being a reliable source of prototype information. If posts containing errors or incorrect information aren’t challenged by knowledgable contributors, then the value of the forum is reduced to almost nothing. The place for opinions to be aired is the General Discussion forum.