Not having a permanent layout yet, my sole uncoupling method is to use an uncoupling skewer (yes, I bought one instead of using a shish kabob thingy). It’s very handy, and feels somewhat prototypical, but I seem to have real trouble using it with any finesse or reliability. More often than not, it takes me many many tries to get two cars apart without using my 0-5-0.
I was curious if anyone had some good pointers on techniques in using these things! (A short youtube video would be super cool!)
Thank you in advance
edit: my fleet is HO and all knuckle couplers, a random mix of Bachman MkII, McHenry, and Kadee.
One of the problems of using an uncoupling tool is that there is not enough light between the cars to see where you are placing the tool. i model in n scale and ho. in n scale i use a rix pic to uncouple and have glued a pic onto the lens of a maglight solitare flashlight. with a twist of the lens cap i now have enough light to see where the knuckles are. i used 5 min epoxy to glue it to the lens and so far its been working for about two years. the rix pic also works somewhat in ho. i also use a bamboo skewer in ho but without light its posible to pop out the knuckle springs. i’m going to glue a skewer onto a maglight and see if it works better. i tried the magnet uncoupler tool from rix and it does work well but the magnets will be attracted to any metal in the cars such as the weights and sometimes when you lift the tool it will also lift the car off the rails.
I find if the couplers don’t have any play in them and are tight against each other then its difficult to uncouple them with a skewer. I will place a car in a siding and then slowly back the loco up until the coupler isn’t tight up against the loco coupler and then release it, that usually works for me. Sometimes though I need to get the 0-5-0 out just to help out. I bought a couple of the magnetic hand held uncouplers and they work a little better then the skewer.
I have had the same experience as TA462. If the couplers don’t have slack in them, it’s very difficult to uncouple with a skewer because the tip needs to be inserted into the gap between the knuckles so they can be pried apart.
If the couplers have pulling tension between them, back your locomotive up slightly until the knuckle gap opens. With bamboo skewers, I have found that rubbing the tip onto a pencil lead to coat them with graphite helps. And after inserting the tip of the skewer between the knuckles, rotate the skewer clockwise between your fingers to help push the knuckles open.
I completely second cacole. I do N scale and use just Micro-Trains couplers. I find that slack in couplers helps, as well as adding some lubricant - like graphite - to the bamboo skewer tip.
They are only a couple of dollars and if you FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS, work great. All you need to do is set the tool between the cars and set the edges of the tool down on the track. The magnets will uncouple precisely every time. We got tired of trying to master the bamboo skewers and are real glad we did.
One thing that helps is to rub a pencil on the point of the skewer to transfer graphite to it. The technique becomes easier with practice, (I run the yard switcher at meets/shows) but basically I leave the throttle on 1, come in against the car and insert just the tip between the coupler knuckles, hit reverse, and as the loco moves out continue inserting the skewer. It works 99+% of the time. Of course when you have an audience you will have more difficulty…that would be Murphy at work, eh? jc5729, John Colley, Port Townsend, WA
Hold the skewere as close to vertical as you can, insert the tip into the very thin gap between the knuckles, and use your fingers and thumb to do a rapid rotation, or spin, of the tip…clockwise.
Again, clockwise…when viewed from directly above the skewer. I painted the tip of my skewer with black acrylic paint which makes the tip somewhat smoother. I can’t say for certain that is it instrumental in any way, but it hasn’t hurt my results.
If you don’t wish to play with the loco backing to permit slack, simply use your pinky on the other hand to gently pull the car closest to the locomotive back towards the other car to yield the slack needed. Also, when doing the rapid spin (carefully and gently), offer some departing pressure to the car rearmost so that the action will truly separate the train from the items nearest the locomotive. Otherwise, you get coupling once more…followed by sighs, rolling eyes, snickers from onlookers, …
It’s not YouTube, but here is a video clip that shows using a bamboo skewer to do uncoupling …
Some tips:
Make sure you have slack in the couplers
Coat the end of the skewer tip with some graphite from a number 2 pencil
Gently push the tip of the skewer between the coupler faces and quickly twist clockwise at the same time
With some practice, 90% + of the time, the couplers will pop open slick as can be …
This is the only way we do uncoupling on my HO Siskiyou Line during op sessions. The prototype uncouples where ever it needs to when switching, and so do we. We prefer to think like the prototype as much as possible when we operate – it adds to the fun!
If the couplers do not open while twisting the skewer clockwise I have found that twisting the skewer counter clockwise usually will make them uncouple.
Wild Willie’s uncoupler - attached to small flashlight
Model Railroader, August 1981 page 81
( “HEDIGER, JIM”, KADEE, UNCOUPLER, MR )
It was a pen flashlight with a piece of 1/16" piano wire with the end flattened attached to it and filed smooth. The flat end was shoved between the airhoses and then levered against the knuckle to open them.
