is there a way to uncouple cars without lifting the truck off the track? by the way this is for HO scale
–Anders
Kadee makes uncoupling ramps that sort of work. They also make an uncoupling wand that sort of works. I use shish kabob sticks left over from making pine trees. That works really well, once you get the hang of it. That is what some of the clubs around here use as well.
works quite well, thanks. the only problem is that the cars move around if not attached to an engine…
On my layout they move around better when they are attached to an engine.
no i mean when im putting the skewer through the couplers… sometimes they slide down the track… i dont know if this is wut tyou mean, im confused…[%-)]
If they slide down the track that means you’ve got a grade there. Important note: Gravity works. I think just about all of us have had that problem at one time or other.
Yes, there are several options.
Use Kadee “magne-matic” couplers but don’t use their magnets.
Use a pair of 3/8" rare earth magnets for spurs. (for example wondermagnet.com but shop around) They are far cheaper and work far better not to mention being nearly invisible.
Electromagnets (homemade or commercial - I like the former) give better control for through tracks. There are also many tricks using hinged permanent magnets under the tracks.
MR had a couple of articles a few years back. Also there are probably several topics on this forum if you can get lucky with the search function.
Rix company makes a manual uncoupling tool but many people seem to prefer skewers.
and/or that your trucks are in pretty good shape.[;)]
I got one of these recently, and ordered some more, because it works great! Much better than the skewers, for me anyhow. On magnetic couplers, anyhow, as I’ve got only Kadees now. It is shaped like a lower-case “h”, with magnets on the legs. You lower it down over the couplers, between the cars. Often you have to move the cars together just a bit, and the magnets will pull the couplers apart sideways.
It’s too short to work on passenger cars with diaphragms, so I cut two of them up and made a longer one – looks awful, but works fine!
It’s called a “Rix Sticker”, part number 628-14. List is $3.50.
Sorry EQ. Even us old guys try to be funny on occassion. With a couple of cars separate from an engine, it will take two hands. To uncouple on a grade you need a stop block of some kind. I have foam road bed and find that another skewer works well. I just stick it in the road bed between the ties. My experience with the Rix was more frustration than with the skewer. They both work but only with practice. At some clubs I have seen guys who make the skewers work like magic.
You layout is not level. To do you need a Carpenter’s level. Bigger the better. I use two.
larak,
Tell us more about using the 3/8" rare earth magnets. Where do you position them? Do you have any photos of them in use? Thanks!
I use the Kadee magnets. I’ve been pretty satisfied with them, but there are some rules that must be followed:
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You need a straight track which is as long as the two cars or locos you plan to uncouple there. The magnet goes right in the middle. It won’t work well at all right after the frog on the curved path of a turnout, for example.
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Do NOT set the magnet with the Kadee gauge. It will be too high, and some engines (notably the popular P2K S1) will “run aground” as the magnet physically lifts the truck off the rail. Instead, set the top of the magnet even with the rail tops. This will probably require some grinding of the ties. From personal experience, it’s easier to grind ties on your workbench than on track glued to the roadbed on your layout.
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Use real Kadee couplers. Use the Kadee gauge to set the coupler height and the trip-pin height. Make sure the couplers move freely (horizontally) in the pocket, but have very little vertical travel.
By following these rules, you can get remote uncoupling to work very well. You can also use the Kadee “delayed uncoupling” feature to spot cars at places other than the uncoupler ramp. I’ve had good results with that, too.
PHARMD98233 You put them one uner each rail about 1/4 inch apart or one ahead of the other by a 1/4 inch.
Maybe someone has pictures.
The magnet does not affect the electricity at all. Also it is buried in the ballast.
Hoever they HAVE to be rare earth magnets because they are the only ones strong enough at that size to do the job. Here in Canada I get them at Lee Valley [google it and maybe order some?].
I hope that helps.
Here’s a plan try putting DCC control couplers on your cars it might be tough or maybe impossible but in O scale the DCC locomotives couplers disconnect and you have an uncoupled car. I it is HO scale try using magnets to make the metal bars under the couplers and maybe the coupler will uncouple. If that doesn’t work talk to a professional
and see what he can tell you.