I’m working on my first HO layout. It’s 5’x9’ and it has 11 turnouts. Most of them are equipped with Atlas under-table switch machines, but so far, these seem to be unreliable and weak, especially on painted turnouts. I’ve seen tortoise switch machines and I might give them a try, but they’re a little too expensive for me to use them on all on my turnouts. Are there any other switch machines that I could try? Also, can I use Atlas switch controls boxes with tortoise switch machines and others?
i have 8 under table ATLAS switch machines and a’int had a lick of problems.
You may need more electrical oomph to kick the switch machines. I had a similar problem got a simple circuit design from www.awrr.com that is a simple capacitive discharge unit constructed of a couple diodes and a small electrlytic capacitor. Instead of a puny 14v AC from your accessory tabs, it pops 'em with sharp spike of current at about 28v. It doesn’t hurt the machines because it’s so brief, but to does cause them to throw with considerabl authority.
Regards
I have used both Tortoise and SwitchMaster stall-motor switch machines for under-layout use. The use of an Atlas push-button contoller for this type of switch machine is not a good idea, because stall-motor machines require continuous voltage. The principle of a stall-motor switch machine is that a continuous voltage applied to them holds the turnout points in position, but they are drawing such a low amperage that the motor does not overheat from being continually on. The only way an Atlas push button controller would work is to hold it down until the turnout has moved and the stall motor has reached its limit of travel. This can be up to 30 seconds, depending on the voltage applied to the motor. The Tortoise would probably then hold the turnout points sufficiently without needing to be continually energized. As you pointed out, however, Tortoise machines are expensive compared to an Atlas twin-coil machine, so personally I would try a capacitive discharge power supply instead of changing the switch machines.
bcammack, you’re suggestion gave me an idea. I use a toy train powerpack for powering my switch machines that’s separate from the MRC powerpack that I use to power my track. It’s output was 18v AC. I found another old toy train powerpack that has 20v of output. I know that’s only an extra 2v, but I tried it and it does make a difference. I’ll probably go over to Radio Shack and see if I can find something that will give me 28v AC.
I also took a look at the switch machine that was giving me the most trouble and I found out that it was a little misaligned. I adjusted it and now it works perfectly.
Do you need them to be remote? I like the caboose industries groundthrows.
Reed
Do you need them to be remote? I like the caboose industries groundthrows.
Reed
Yes, they do all need to be remote. All of them are too far away for me to reach over and throw by hand, and the ones that aren’t are all part of a switching yard and are too close together for all but one or two of them to have manual switches.