Under the Platform Wiring Tricks

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

I’ve never enjoyed wiring, and at 73 years old it is pretty darned difficult to attach up wires while lying on my back, working under my track platform. I can’t get close to the work and seeing what I am doing is tough.

One thing that helps is I have fastened Fahnestock clips to the underside of my platform. These spring clips make it a bit easier to make connections. Certainly less trouble than makeing solder connections. And no risk of having hot solder drip onto my face!

I mount those clips overlaid in pairs with a single screw, so they will accept and connect at least two wires, and often more.

But still, making connections under the platform is a real pain. I’ll trade my Fahnestock clip tip for any other useful tip someone wants to contribute.

I should mention that I have a creeper which should help in theory, but I’ve found it is a pain to maneuver on carpet and more trouble than it is worth. I rarely use it.

2

Hello All,

For my 4’x8’ pike- -with no under-access for wiring- -I took a page from the prototypical utility companies.

The layout construction is 1-inch foam, originally on 3/4-inch MDFB (Particle Board) sitting on the bed in the computer/railroad/spare bedroom.

I used 1/2-inch Split Poly Loom; used in automotive applications for wire looms- -available at automotive parts stores.

A 1/2-inch wood chisel was used to make “trenches” in the foam 1/2-inches wide and deep.

The Split Poly Loom was pressed in the trenches, split side down.

I only ran the trenches in straight lines.

For junctions, I used a 1-inch hole saw to create “utility pits” in the foam, just like prototypical utility companies do in the ground.

These “utility pits” are covered by small buildings to allow future access to the “utility tunnels.”

This allowed me to run the track feeder wires; I used a radial wiring pattern rather than a bus with feeders.

A bus wiring scheme could also be used with feeder wires.

For turnout control, I ran parallel “utility tunnels” to avoid any electromagnetic interference between the two.

By using this method I could scenic/ballast over these “utility trenches” without permanently burying the wires.

A centrally located “utility pit” was cut into the foam; down to the base, where the wires come together along with terminal strips, an auto-reversing unit, and circuit breakers for each power district.

In the case of using a bus wiring scheme, these components can be installed in square or round “utility pits” carved into the foam base where convenient.

All this was accomplished without any under-layout wiring.

Hope this helps.

3

You might want to look at Wago connectors

Replace your bifocals with full size (not sit on the end of your nose) reading glasses of the appropriate correction. That way you can look up and actually see.

Also have enough light. I put a CFL bulb in a regular trouble light. It doesn’t get hot and seems more resistant to being knocked around.

4

I recently got a forehead-mounted LED light, kinda like what my dentist wears. Hands free and shines exactly where you’re looking. Comfortable soft wide stretchy headband. Cost about $10.

5

Hi Just Wanna Play,

Instead of going under the table, I made the underside of the table come to me:

Cheers!!

Dave

6

Huh. Never knew those Wago connectors existed. They look like a big step up from the century-old Fahnestock clip technology. Thanks for the tip BigDaddy!

I have ordered a bunch. One thing I don’t see, however, is a way to screw them onto the underside of my platform. Maybe the photos I’ve looked at aren’t at the right angle to show the screw-hole. But if it isn’t there, boy did they miss a trick!

No matter. I’ll figure something out. I’ve a 3D printer. I have a concept I think will work.

7

Hon30critter, I used a similar trick when wiring 4 x 8 foot slot tracks. I set them on the floor tilted up 90-degrees and fastened a brace at each end to hold them steady. Most of the wiring was near one edge of the track so I could sit next to it and work quite comfortably.

Unfortunately my model railroad is too big and awkward for that trick. Shucks.

8

I use Posi-taps, I could accually run wires without looking if I had too, up to 5 per connection in 22 gauge with a 10 gauge main wire if I remember right, been a few years since finished wireing but have it written down somewhere, LOL

9

Just don’t put any connections deep under the layout. I use longer feeders and do all of my connections at small panels attached to the front legs. I can do all of the wiring sitting on a low stool.

10

This is a great point. My first layout was difficult because I was constantly working over my head or lying on my back under the layout.

Brother Lion suggested working at the side instead.

I work above the table, and I drop wires down through the holes. Longer wires allow me to stay beside the layout, grab the wires, pull them to the side, and work there. Once finished, the fascia covers the work. If more work is needed, the fascia is easily removed to get to the wiring.

All the work is done sitting in a chair!

This photo shows some of the wiring for lights, but all my track feeders, lights, and any other wiring is done the same way.

Have fun with your layout.

11

I will also give a huge thumbs up for Wago connectors.

-Kevin

12

When I build the benchwork, I drill holes and run bus wires for my track bus, my control bus and a couple of structure lighting busses, before I even have a subroadbed in place. I leave a little slack so I can just drop feeders down once I have subroadbed in place, including track and structures. This greatly reduces under-table work. It doesn’t eliminate it, but it really helps.

I try to use screw connector blocks at each section of benchwork, to make disassembly and reassembly easier. I label the bus lines and am pretty strict about maintaining a color code for wires, even using green wires to power frogs.

13

Wago Connectors

I just ordered some for myself. Kevin, how do you attach them?

14

There are some 3D files out there for Wago mounts, for instance:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2075219

For me I simply use Velcro® dots (3/4 or 1").

https://a.co/d/06BSTYP

With the Velcro® mounting it is easy to peel the Wago off the benchwork to make the connections then stick it right back in place.

I’m going to order the squares, they would probably work even better with the rectangular shape of the Wagos.

https://a.co/d/6jxgvtl

Wago by Edmund, on Flickr

Wago in situ by Edmund, on Flickr

Good Luck, Ed

15

Velcro!

'Nother great idea BigDaddy!

I happen to have loads of the self-adhesive variety, purchased for another project.

And York 1, your method of extending the wires out to the edge of the layout has me thinking…

16

Not me, it was gmpullman. I was thinking of glueing it to a styrene square and screwing that into the layout, or stapling the bus wire close to the connector. His is a better idea.

17

Found a vid on how to use Wago and another style for Model Trains:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ta75lfLB_m0

18

My Wago’s arrived today, they are the size of a short postage stamp and very light.

19

Out of curiousity, I looked at LED lights on Amazon similar to what joggers/runners use. Makes sense to consider.

Another idea: what about the light mechanism car mechanics (and others) use which they use under a car? Similar to this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/HANDY-BRITE-Ultra-Bright-LED-8-35-in-Yellow-Cordless-Work-Light-Lamp-HB-MC4/307630217?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D27-027_003_EXTCORD_SURG-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-4035595-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_PMax&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D27-027_003_EXTCORD_SURG-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-4035595-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_PMax-71700000103108864--&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzrbuyp_RgQMVh9_ICh0t6wi5EAQYBiABEgLqVvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

20

Pure genius! I have one replaced knee, and the other one isn’t long for the knife. This would really help me out! Any info (closeups, parts, etc) you wish to share would be tremendously appreciated!