Does anyone have a secret to undercutting ties to fit under rail joiners? Dremel seems to either melt the plastic if too fast, or take forever to cut if too slow, or I go too deep, or not deep enough. Xacto blade works, but I’m afeared of slicing off some flesh as well. In any case, they all have a less than desired look when done. Is there such a commercial product as underrcut ties?
Since I have around 500 feet of HO code 100 track, there are more than just a few ties I need for the rail joiners.
I use a pair of small wire nippers and then I sand the point left by using one of my wifes emery boards that she uses on her finger nail…ssshhhh, don’t tell her or I’m out of business!!!
I use a #11 blade in a hobby knife to get under rails that don’t move, and a chisel-point blade (cutting perpendicular to the rail) where I can slide the rail aside. I have also used a very small triangular or square file on individual or paired ties which were then slid into place under the joiner.
Since I am a meticulous tracklayer I don’t mind spending the extra time, even though all my Code 100 flex (about 200 linear feet of it) will be used for hidden track only. Visible track will be Code 83 flex, mostly concrete ties.
I agree, the Xacto works great for those ties not removed. Yes it’s not fast, but produces the best results. I will use a combination of the blade or chisel and a file to prep those that need to be replaced. Not all of the spike / plate detail needs to be removed, only just what interferes with the railjoiner.
But what I do, is I turn the flextrack over. About 3 ties back from the end, I use a knife to cut the plastic piece that is hidden under the rail opposit the opening on the other side for spacing on two ties. Then I slide the ties back, install the joiners, and slide the ties back up against the joiners.I then take one loose tie, sand the guides off it, and glue it to the bottom of the joiners.
I cut the ties completely off the flex track under the joiners. Then I take a scrap piece of flex track and remove the rails, then cut small sections of ties to fit in the “gaps” in the ties (usually groups of 3-4 ties) and sand the small pieces so they fit under the rail joiners, but putting a piece of 150 or 200 grit sandpaper on a flat surface and put the ties upside down on the sandpaper and moving the ties over the stationary paper. After painting, they aren’t noticeable.
I know my method goes against the grain, but with a little practice it works very well: I remove the ties under the joint, tkae some scrap ties, remove the spike heads and any other protrusions, slide the ties under the joiner and heat the rail (with a bit of downward pressure) until it starts to melt into the tie making a groove but not distorting the ties. Trim away any ooze with a knife. With practice you can do it in place on the layout, or you can make batches at the work bench with some scrap rail with a joiner attached.
I scrap the ties that have been removed and use Micro Engineering pre-stained wood ties to fill the gaps where the joiners have been installed. They will slide right under the track joiners and look really good.
I remove the ties from under the railjoiners and use a small file to reduce the tie thicknessswo the railjoiners do not sit too high, then slip the altered ties back under the joiners. There are always scrap lengths of plastic flex track I can sacrifice for extra ties.
I prefer a triangular file to a flat file because it is stronger and there is less chance to bend or snap under hand pressure.
I have gotten cut several times trimming plastic ties with a hobby knife. I have never gotten cut or abraded using the file.