how can i fix uneven couplers on my railroad cars?
Since you don’t mention a scale, I’ll assume you’re talking HO.
- Get a Kadee coupler height gauge, item #205. You’ll need a standard to set the height of any brand coupler, and these are the easiest to use. This should apply to locos as well as cars.
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page120.htm
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The method of adjustment depends on several factors, how far and which direction the coupler is out of tolerance. The simplest way to adjust height, if the coupler is off by about half a knuckle height is to use an offset head coupler. Kadee’s 20, 30, and 40 series couplers have the offset heads and different shank lengths for different heights of mounting.
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For smaller out of tolerance coupler heights, Kadee sells shim washers for the trucks to raise the coupler, and coupler pocket shims to lower it.
If you have more specific questions, we can give a more specific answer.
In addition to TomDiehl’s response, occasionally the frame/ coupler pocket may not fitted or secure enough to the cars floor or body. Many times this can be seen on Athearn hoppers and covered hoppers where the coupler/ frame doesn’t fit properly into the lattice/ ladder ends of the body. This can be seen as frame flexing or distortion. Even couplers that are at proper height can move under load from the weight/ pull of a long train. I found this on older Atlas/ Kato RSs and GPs. The body mounted coupler would shift up and down under load due to weak design of the plastic pilots/ steps.
Sometimes the molded coupler box may need to be cut of and material removed to set the Kadee box at the proper height. I tend to find that a Kadee coupler will works to its best performance when it is installed in its own box. This isn’t always practical and should only be done if really nec. All my older Athearn engines always got Body mounted couplers. this allowed for detailing of the pilots w/ plows etc and made shell removal much easier.
Most tank cars can prove to be the most difficult if the frame/ coupler pocket needs work. They have limited frame in the first place. Offsets or shims are usually the best bet.
Once you determine if the coupler is too high or too low using the above mentioned coupler height gauge, there are two ways to make the necessary repairs.
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If the coupler is too low, add a styrene plastic shim between the truck and the truck bolster. (Kadee also sells shim washers but I’ve found a piece of thin styrene cut to fit works just as well.)
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If the coupler is too high, remove the draft gear box and add styrene plastic shims between the rolling stock body and the draft gear box until the desired height is achieved…chuck
Not an uncommon problem. The ordinary blue box Athearn cars will be low with a #5 (the standard) Kadee coupler. I routinely put #6 flat washers (any hardware store) under the trucks on blue box cars of which I have many.
In addition to the #5 coupler, Kadee makes 20 or 30 different couplers. They come with overset, underset and normal coupler heads, as well as long medium and short shanks, non conductive (plastic) and different coupler boxes. They publish a long long list of “what coupler fits which piece of rolling stock”. It’s on the Kadee website and in the Walther’s big book. When faced with a coupler too high or too low, it is worthwhile checking that list to see if you have the recommended coupler. Granted, the list mostly recommends #5 couplers for freight cars and then it’s all over the place for locomotives and passenger equipment.
You need a gage to tell which cars are the right height and which ones ougtha be adjusted. You can just buy the Kadee gage. I made my own gage from just a block of soft pine of the right height, mounted at one end of my test track with a coupler screwed to the top of it. I used the NMRA gage to get the height right. If you lack the NMRA gage you oughta buy one, it’s worth having just for checking wheel gauge, and it will check a bunch of other stuff.
Another tip. Kadee couplers come with the “glad hand” just right. If you have a car where the gladhand is hitting on turnouts it’s a good bet the couplers are low too. I never bend a gladhand until I have checked coupler height. Nearly always, low gladhands mean low couplers.
Another tip. With a train running, put your eye down at railhead height and watch the couplers go by. When you see a pair of mismatched couplers, take the off